The text refers to October/November 2009

Overall remarks

The Manaslu Circuit trek is of outstanding beauty and well-worth investing three weeks of your life. In following, please do not expect the full information about the trek: only additional information to guidebooks, maps and internet sources is provided according to our own experience and observations. We trekked there in October and November 2009, on the route from Arughat up the Buddhi (Buri) Gandaki valley, over the Larkya La, down the Dudh Khola valley, joining the Marsyangdi valley in Thonje/Dhorapani and following it down to Bhulbhule. This stretch covers about 220km distance, accumulating ca. 9000m ascent and similar descent; the minimum and maximum heights are ca. 480m and 5150m, respectively.

Philosophy We have travelled in a small group of three persons. To make it clear – we have trekked without guides and porters, thoroughly on our own, all equipment carried in rucksacks on our own backs.

The trek itself is perfectly, so to say, backpackable, with the possibility by most of the stages to sleep in a lodge or a more or less simple bhatti by the trail used by travelling people of all kinds (a teahouse, the simple local form of Bed & Breakfast) – and to order local food. It means, rice and lentils (dhaal bhat), boiled or fried potatoes, vegetable curries, fried rice, egg dishes, or what is just available. There are also village shops, where one can stock up not only in alcohol and sweets, but also some packaged food (noodle soup, biscuits). Inquired, locals would share also their provisions at a price.

Equipment Apart from the standard trekking personal equipment and clothes according to our personal choice, we have taken a tent, good matteraces and very good down sleeping bags, a kerosene/petrol stove with kitchen pots and mugs, and some packaged food, so that we could in theory survive up to 3-4 days on our own. In practice, we have used these capabilities while crossing the Larkya La (two bivouacs, before and after the pass, with meals cooked by ourselves) and two times in two weeks of trekking before the pass, which, however, was not caused by a real necessity. In the remaining time, we have stayed in lodges or bhattis and ordered the locally available food to be prepared for us. The only stretch without lodging and readily avalable food is the pass crossing between Samdo and Bimthang. A perfectly acclimatised and a very fit person travelling lightweight can cover this distance in one very long and exhausting day, like the locals do, which could make taking the tent-connected equipment and kitchen for this trek unnecessary. Anyway, taking a tent, kitchen and food provisions open all possibilities of staying between villages and – what is especially attractive – making spontaneous side trips of all kinds anywhere and anytime one wishes.

Provisions At the beginning of the trek, we have carried some provisions for well 3 days, which reduced to 1-2 days, while gaining experience, what is presently and readily available along the trail – namely, quite a lot. We have also started with two litres of fuel for a reliable kerosene/petrol stove, three pots and three cups, so that we could prepare warm meals of our own anytime. The only possible shortage could possibly be the stove fuel; the recent price hikes caused that the locals switched thoroughly to wood for cooking even if they have a kerosene stove, which reduced the demand for kerosene – and so the supply.

Formalities Since about 20 years, the Manaslu Circuit route is open by the Nepal government for foreign travellers. However, for the route between Jagat in the Gorkha Province to Thonje (Dhorapatan) in the Mustang Province a foreigner is required to obtain a trekking permit. This is due to the tense political situation in some areas of Nepal nearby Tibetan border in the past, which, however is no more valid since about 30 years. The issuing government instances (Ministry of Home, Dept. of Immigration) require that all the formalities are to be done via a trekking agency. Therefore, we have arranged our Manaslu trekking permits, TIMS, as well as both Manaslu and Annapurna Conservation Area Projects (MCAP & ACAP) permits (together four documents pro person, all withpassport photos) via a trekking agency in Kathmandu, which carefully examined our mountain guide capabilities and our travel/health insurance policies. The insurance must cover especially the costs of any rescue actions, a helicopter emergency evacuation from the mountains, all possible medical costs as well as an exceptional air transfer home. We are obliged to thank the agency for their help and the realistic approach to the matter. All MCAP or police checkposts in the Manaslu area, although sometimes inquiring about our (missing) guides and porters, but well knowing the daily realities of the present-day Nepal and the Manaslu region in particular, have not made us any problems with making this trek on our own.

Visa and permit costs The present Manaslu permit fees, treated in US$, are 10 US$ per day, whereby it is appropriate to take some two weeks for the circuit (the restricted area starts at Jagat and ends at Thonje). The MCAP and ACAP fees are 2000 Rs each, there is also a small commission for TIMS if managed via a trekking agency. This adds to the inevitable Nepal tourist visa fee, 40 US$ for up to one month stay. Taking into account that it is difficult to spend more than 10 US$ per person per day at the trek, these fees form a considerable part of the overall trek costs.

Overall security We have carried a well-stocked medical emergency kit and know some basics of the first aid. Presently, the security of trekking increased greatly by the presence of satellite telephones in almost each village (inquire by locals in a sudden emergency!). Although not always quite reliable, they allow arranging help from outside just in case. The easiest solution nowadays (sometimes too easy) is to summmon a helicopter, whereby it should be possible to cover the costs in the case of the emergency by your insurance. The costs of helicopter evacuation are about 1500-2000 US$ per flight hour. The machine will usually not start if this is not paid in advance or they have some other securities. For this purpose, an assurance from your trekking agency, embassy or the insurance emergency instances are very necessary. It is better to clear these things in advance, especially with your insurance company.

Please note that a considerable part of the main trail, from Lho in the Buddhi Gandaki river valley to Yak Kharka in the Dudh Khola valley lies above 3000m and at least two days and one night must be spent well above 4000m, with a pass crossing at the maximum height of ca. 5150m. With an usual itinerary, one spends about a week well above 3000m and a careful acclimatisation is necessary. It is easier for individual trekkers, which are not pushed forward by the group itineraries (and ambitions of others) to acclimatise in the recommended individual way. For this purpose, side trips to side valleys and ridges, base camps, etc. reaching to 4500-5000m, or just staying for rest days on the way, especially after the first overnight stay in the range of 3000m-3500m, are the nicest way to do it. Fortunately, the upper Buddh Gandaki valley offers a lot of possibilities to do interesting side trips of all kinds and the villages itself are interesting enough.

The political situation and tensions during our stay have not affected our journey. The only surprise has been the fact that the Maoists in the area still insisted on collecting so-called donations from trekking group guides, although this practice should have been stopped already. However, a relatively small sum of 500Rs per guided trekker has been required, compared to the previously demanded sums in the order of up to 100$. Anyway: you are advised to assess the political situation carefully before your trip.

Getting there Presently, as the starting point of the trek the town of Arughat is considered. We admit we have allowed us a bit of luxury and taken a private jeep from Katmandu to Arughat. The road to Arughat forks from the highway Kathmandu-Pokhara crossing a bridge over the Trisuli Khola by Malekhu, and following the valley of the Thupal Khola. This is a good paved road leading eventually to Dhading Besi. Just before the bridge over the Thupal Khola, less than 2km before Dhading, one turns left (NW) on an unpaved toll road. This final stretch of mere 20km can easily take 3-4h drive, first up the ridge to to Murali and Palpa, where the worst stretch (a traverse) begins, nearby Kaphalpani. The roads goes finally to the Ankhu Khola, which is crossed via a new road bridge. The final stretch to Arughat is straightforward compared to crossing the hills south of Ankhu Khola. You arrive in the eastern part of Arughat, to start the trek you should cross the suspension bridge (not for vehicles) to the W (right) shore of the Buddhi (vel Buri) Gandaki.

There exists also a road from Gorkha to Arughat (the interesting historical town of Ghorka can be easily reached by a paved road). We have seen trucks in Arughat in the western part of the town, however it seems the route Ghorka-Arughat cannot be taken by other vehicles. All buses go to Arughat via the Dhading road. In the past, it was recommended to get by a jeep to the village of Kahnchowk, some 10km NE of Ghorka, from where there is only some 10km by foot downslope to Arughat.

Getting away The Manaslu Circuit route joins the well known Annapurna Circuit after crossing the bridge over the Marsyangdi River between Thonje and Dhorapani. If you choose in Thonje (Dhorapani) to go down the Marsyangdi valley, the roadhead in Syange (jeeps only) can be reached from there in two days walk at most. However, while we trekked there, this roughly motorable road was blocked by a landslide nearby Bahundanda, so this option was not available. Bhulbhule (the W part) is already reached by frequently and reliably going minibuses to Besisahar. We have reached Bhulbhule from Gowa in 3,5 not very intensive days, reaching the last day Bandipur via Besisahar and Dumre.

The Manang route Because the Annapurna Circuit trail south of Dhorapani is just effectively being destroyed by ongoing and quite intensive road works, making it almost a nonsense to trek there, one might have an idea to go from Thonje up the Marsyangdi valley. Note, however, that the road is being built also above Dhorapani up to Manang. Anyway, taking into account that after crossing the Larkya La you are well acclimatised and accustomed to mountain trails, Manang can be reached in three intensive march days. From Manang you can fly out, or rather go two days more via Thorong La to Muktinath and take a jeep there the next day, or go one day more to reach Jomsom and take a
bus or fly out from there. One can also take the advantage of your camping equipment after stocking up some provisions in Manang and cross from there to Jomosom via the Tilicho Lake route. Anyway, it would take only 2-4 days more to go via Manang than to exit via the lower Marsyangdi valley.

Alternative Barpak-Laprak and Rupina La routes One can join the Manaslu Circuit from Gorkha not only going from there via Khanchowk to Arughat. A nice option seems to be the route from Ghorka along the Daraudi Khola up to Baluwa and then cross via Baprak, Gupsi Danda (3000m) and Laprak to Khorlabesi. The route is described in Project Himalaya site, it takes 5 days to reach Khorlabesi from Ghorka. A much more ambitious option is to continue up the Daraudi Khola from Baluwa via Ghachchowk (or similar) to cross Rupina La 4720m east of Baudha Himal, then going down the glaciers flowing from Himal Chuli and Baudha and then down Chhilune Khola valley to Nyak in the Buddhi Gandaki valley. One can also probably reach Rupina La on a navigationally complicated route from Besisahar. Some photos from crossing Rupina La (successful or not) are available from sites of Paul van Nuffel and Uwe Ellger.

Interacting with the trekking industry groups We have trekked without employing any guides or porters. This is the matter of personal choice of the freedom, how you wish to travel in the mountains. Please note, we are all mountain guides – yes, of course, not for the Himalaya – but with some (humble) experience. Due to the fact that Nepal is the very domain of activity of the commercial outdoor tourism companies, the self-organised, independent trekker is slowly becoming a rarity there. Even in the areas, where independent trekking is straightforward, like the popular Annapurna or Everest treks, the consumeric and commercial approach to travel is gaining overhand: even the smallest groups – often a single individual trekker – tend to employ porters and guides nowadays. Anyway, trekking independently in the Manaslu area means that interacting with other tourists on the trail means interacting mostly with industrially organised groups. We have trekked in the height of the trekking season in Nepal (11th Oct – 1st Nov 2009 on the trail), what means that we have met quite a few groups on the way. One cannot say it was overcrowded, but most of the available capacities were well utilised – but mostly by the group personnel.

Although called in the advertisements full camping treks, which suggests a full independency, the most of the industrial, agency-organised groups provide food and shelter only for the customers and not for the personnel (and almost never for porters). Therefore groups are forced to camp there, where their personnel can find shelter (and food, and rakshi…). This means, they camp inevitably in villages, preferably by a bhatti or a lodge. While the customers sleep in tents put up on a field or a meadow nearby, the kitchen tries to prepare their meals in the bhatti kitchen (or simply one of the lodge rooms!), the porters try to find the shelter and food anywhere else – usually sleeping in the kitchen room, or occupying any place under the roof – while the sirdar often takes a lodge room for himself, sometimes with some of the customers which sometimes prefer a bed to their tent.

If there are a few groups going simultaneously, the competition for the best places between the groups from different agencies can be surprisingly fierce, with runners starting each early morning trying to reserve best places ahead before others arrive. Very often, on some smaller camping grounds, the tents are put up in such a way, that it is clear that no more (foreign) tents are welcome.

Summary: although the number of trekkers travelling along the Manaslu Circuit trail is almost incomparably smaller than, for example, along the neighbouring Annapurna Circuit, the individual trekkers are well advised to avoid places, where the groups gather and inevitably compete for limited resources. As an individual trekker, one might find him/herself overwhelmed there. Anyway, if you have taken a tent you are free to go elsewhere!

Please note, we have personally nothing against the people, who require leaders, guides, porters, sherpas and all other kinds of servants in order to trek in Nepal. We do not treat using other people as dispensible beasts of burden and taking advantage of the groups organised by the Nepal trekking industry, following some colonial or military traditions as something really wrong! This is also the way to experience Nepal as it is, good or wrong. We just prefer to do it by ourselves, on our own, just for our own fun.

Literature, maps, navigation

Guidebooks There are three guidebooks with a description of the Manaslu Circuit Trek:

• Kev Reynolds, Manaslu. A Trekking Guide, A Cicerone Guide, Cicerone Press, 2000, ISBN 1-85284-302-0. Written rather for a member of an organised group, it contains a slightly outdated, but very good and precise description of the trail.
• Bradley Mayhew, Joe Bindloss Trekking in The Nepal Himalaya, Lonely Planet, 2009, ISBN 978-1-74104-188-0. The Manaslu Trek description is only a slightly updated text provided in the previous guidebook edition by Stan Armington. Names of new lodges have been quoted, some route details changed or added, but this is definitely not a newly researched and thorougly updated contribution.
• Toru Akano, Trekking in Nepal, Allied Publishers, 1984, available readily in Nepal. Outdated, but very worth looking into for often forgotten details and well-chosen illustrations.

For internet resources (mostly itineraries, photo galleries), refer to the following page.

Navigation Following the trail in the terrain is almost everywhere absolutely straighforward. I would risk to say that human guides in terms of the route finding only are simply not required. For the pure purpose of the following the main trail, any special maps or measures (a compass, a GPS device) are not necessary, but nice to have. However, for any side trips out of the main trail between villages, they are strongly recommended.

Marking MCAP has placed in almost each village and at most important trail juctions characteristic brown signposts naming the given place and informing about the walking distance to the next village – whereby the counter-clockwise circuit direction is taken into account. They are present from at least Arughat until the junction with the Annapurna Circuit in Thonje/Dhorapani. The trail over the Larkya La is marked with 3m high iron poles, brown, with white-yellow-white stripes, roughly from the bridge in Larkya Bazaar to the edge of the Bimthang meadows.

Maps The following sheets of Nepal topographic maps (Finmaps) in the scale 1:50000 cover the area of the Manaslu
Circuit trek:

• 2884 16 Arughat (from Arughat to Machhakhola)
• 2884 12 Philim (from Khorlabesi to Ranagaon)
• 2884 08 Namrun (from Bihi almost to Lihi)
• 2884 07 Samagau (from Lihi to Larkya La W approach)
• 2884 06 Bagarchap (from Salpudada Glacier to Karte)
• 2884 10 Bahundada (from Tal to Bhulbhule and Khudi)
• 2884 11 Simi – optionally, this is the Manaslu Himal inside the Circuit, Himalchuli – Baudha – Rupina La

The maps can be obtained in one working day’s time at a price of 300Rs per sheet from Pilgrims Books in Kathmandu (what does not mean that there no other sources of these maps). Please note they are in part already 10 years old with all consequences of this fact. While the background topography is excellent, for example not all trails are marked correctly – or not marked at all, especially away from settlements. Anyway, the best material available, but should be probably supplemented with a touristic map.

Additionaly, we have quite successfully used – especially for the touristic attractions coverage – the map 1:125000 Around Manaslu from Nepal Map Publisher, ISBN 978-9937-8062-7-5, ca. 500Rs. This map is sometimes very sketchy in placing details, but uses as a base a very good contour map.

Older maps of the area, including US and Soviet military maps, can be obtained from the excellent Blank on the map site.

GPS I have used a handheld eTrex Vista HCx device from Garmin mostly in order to register positions of characteristic points useful for the navigation. In general, the horizontal accuracy of measurements was mainly well below 10m all the time (best accuracy 2-3m), with exception of deep gorges and – somehow strange – midday hours, when some of the satellites were not in sight for some reasons. (Note that the vertical accuracy is not so high as the horizontal.)

In order to use the Nepal grid of the topographic map co-ordinate system (blue mesh) with the GPS receiver, one has to take into account that the Nepal system is not readily available for at least Garmin eTrex. One has to follow the blueprinted prescription given on each map sheet in order to define a User UTM Grid with:

• Longitude origin: 084°00.000′
• Scale: +0.999900
• False Easting: 500000.0m
• False Northing: 0.0m

This grid definition and setting the map datum defined by Garmin as India Bangladesh delivered according to my experience the best results for at least this area, as it could be proved by making measurements in places which can be easily identified on the map. Finmap itself quotes as datum Everest 1830 spheroid and projection Modified Universal Transverse Mercator…

Fortunately, there is a free GPS contour map for the area, which can be loaded to the GPS device, kindly provided by Roger von Hentig (thank you!), generated by him from publicly available databases in order to provide essential information on the topography for mountaineers and hikers. Taking account the inevitable inaccuracies of these databases (especially in deep, canyon-like valleys), the usage in the field was almost unproblematic.

Co-ordinates In the following co-ordinates according to the Nepal Grid and GPS-heights are cited (from my own measurements), as they are much more practical to use with the topographic map than the usual longitude and latitude co-ordinates. The points referred can be easily found on the topographic map without any electronical device, just by using the blue printed co-ordinate mesh. Please note the co-ordinates are measured with a limited accuracy, and that if you you wish to use them for your purposes, do it, but please only on your own responsibility.

Some details: Trail, lodges, shops, checkpoints, bridges…

Co-ordinates given according to the Nepal Grid of the Finmap Nepal topographic maps, measured with a simple handheld GPS device with a limited accuracy.

Arughat Eastern part (where the wheel transport via Dhading arrives): One hotel, N of the street to the bridge. Western part: Hotel Manaslu (stayed here), Hotel Third Step. Additionaly 2-4 simple lodges/teahouses. It seems that Arughat cab be reached by trucks also from Ghorka side. Police checkpost in the western part, north of the bridge at 489m, (0579957,3102749), not inquiring. Note, this is the last true town (yes, a town!) before Besi Sahar is reached in three weeks’ time.

A road, or at least a broadened trail, but without vehicle bridges has been build so far as Armala, N of Soti Khola. The road partially avoids the village centres. (In this way we passed Shanti Bazaar without entering the village.) From Arughat to Soti Khola the typical rice fields landscape of the Nepal hills.

Arkhet (538m, 0582280,3108964) A small, nice Manasalu Lodge. Numerous shops in the bazaar.

Kheurepani A few bhattis and Sunita Tourist Camp at 559m, (0583449,3111182).

Soti Khola Good Camp by the southern village edge, further on ABC Lodge (stayed here) on the old trail below the new road. Manasalu Treaking Camp (with a simple dormitory as well) N of the suspension bridge. 2-3 bhattis more, a telephone just S of the bridge at 604m, (0584186,3113341).

Armala A well English-speaking Maoists try to collect some money from us, ignored, do not insist. From guided groups they were (as reported) more successful. There is a (new?) bridge to the left bank of the Buddhi Gandaki. Armala is at 672m (0584842,3113973)

Khursani Bari (15 min. N of Armala) A nice-looking Trekking Camp, or rather a lodge. On the first floor, a kind of dormitory. 632m (0584975,3114373).

Between Armala and Lapu Besi the trail leads high above the river, flowing in much narrower valley as before and in woods. A few up and downs in a forrested area, a few waterfalls, two-three traverses of rocky walls.

Liding Himalayan good Camping and a few bhattis. Telephone. 658m, (0584962,3114699)

Lapu Besi at 762m (0586611,3117765) Sunita Lodge (does not look good), Manaslu Lodge (and a camp, looking good) and a third Trekker (or similar name) lodge and a camp (OK).

After crossing a small pass with a large school (opened again) in a side ridge at 828m (0586413,3118493), opposite Nauli Khola a large, dramatic and active landslide (stones falling almost continuously). The river valley broadens with a lot of gravel and sand banks.

Khanibesi Taken the trail along the sandy banks of Buddhi Khola and camped well below the village nearby the flying-fox cableway across the Buddhi Gandaki, at 779m, (0586069,3121158).

Machha Khola About three lodges and/or campings in the lower part of the village, especially the Everest Camp looked inviting. In the upper part of the village, along the trail leading directly to the suspension bridge, Maoists collected 500Rs per trekker from group guides. (Tourist themselves were not approached.) Their post could be easily avoided by going to the lower part of the village and then to the outlet of the Machha Khola to the Buddhi Gandaki and
then going up the Machha Khola to the suspension bridge at 855m (0585617,3123799).

Khorlabesi at 912m (0586938,3126417) One lodge and/or camping just N and well below the bridge, 1-2 bhattis in the village above.

Tatopani at 942m (0588308,3128672) 3 simple and small lodges (dormitory-style), bhattis, a small camping (stayed in a four-bed room).

Hot sources in Tatopani Someone tried to build a small pool below the trail, but this idea seems to be abandoned. Instead, a simple basin with an immediate outflow provides with two active spouts – one with lukewarm and one with hot water. A (very) public wash place. And a toilet… adorned with Maoist slogans. Note: this is the last readily available warm water wash possibility before reaching the Annapurna Circuit! (Notice: We were later informed that some Maoists collected money in Tatopani as well.)

The new bridge over the Buddhi Gandaki N of Tatopani is bombarded by falling stones (0588202,3129139). The old bridge remains.

Dobhan at 995m (0589018,3130925) Himalayan Hotel and Lodge, with a possibility of camping as well, looking good. 2-3 bhattis S of the village.

North of Dobhan one climbs slowly along the Buddhi Gandaki falls to reach a broader valley by the Yaru Khola confluence – with flat gravel banks by the river surrounded by steep slopes. The valley remains so broad – but interleaved with a few narrower stretches – up to Philim and Awa.

Shyaule Bhatti A bhatti just behind a landslide at 1015m (0588839,3132414), then another one, the place probably called Indur.

Yaruphant, so the name on the signpost, 2-3 bhattis on the way with stops for the mule caravanes, at 1124m, (0589075,3133601).

Yaru Khola, just SE of the confluence of the Yaru Khola with the Buddhi Gandaki, a few somehow uninterested bhattis under the red flag and alcohol influence (intensive rakshi field production). At ca. 1280m, (0589255,3134656).

Bridge over Buddhi Gandaki S of Jagat opp. Lhakpa – quite a few bhattis, at (0588681,3135398).

Jagat at 1348m (0588065,3136985) On the flat area S of the village, a good large camp of MCAP, with a bhatti. In the village proper, the S entrance, two co-operating(?) nice lodges, shops, a telephone (stayed here). Electricity, sockets in the lodge rooms. Clearly marked by the N exit from the village: an inquiring MCAP checkpoint, where your entrance to the the Manaslu Conservation Area Project is thoroughly and completely registered (all documents checked, permits, MCAP fees, TIMS).

Salleri at 1336m (0587328,3138028) bhattis.

Ghatta Khola N of Sirdibas, a shop or two. At a makeshift bridge over the Ghatta Khola, at 1993m,  )(587508,3141021), just behind the village of the same name, an alternative trail on the right bank of the Buddhi Gandaki forks to the upper part of Nagjet and remains higher above the right bank of the river leading up to Pangsing – and then probably after crossing Chhilu Khola high up to Nyak, or somehow to the blue metal bridge over the Buddhi Gandaki just below its confluence with Syar Khola. From Nyak one can descend N to Pewa.

Nagjet (bridge over Buddhi Gandaki below Philim). A watchful and clearly marked police checkpoint below the long bridge over the Buddhi Gandaki nearby a bhatti. Only trekking permits are to be registered. 1457m, (0587607,3141502).

Philim at 1568m (0588037,3141735) At least one lodge and two campings, a few bhattis and shops. Administrative buildings (Local party HQ? MCAP? Police?), but no questioning.

The long stretch between Philim and Deng, especially in the deep and still wild Buddhi Gandaki gorge, previously recommended to be done in one long trekking day, can be now divided due to new bhattis and camping places. While most of bridges from Arughat to below the Syang Khola confluence seem to be new or well-maintained, the situation above differs, with some bridges definitely requiring repair.

Ekle Bhatti One camping place just opposite Pangsing high above the another bank of the river (camped here), a few bhattis. Camp place with water is at 1577m, (0587838,3143551).

Awa One or two bhattis, probably also a camp. Lower part of the village at 1592m, (0587989,3145550).

Blue metal bridge over the Buddhi Gandaki in a nice pine forest. Before it is reached, at ca. (0588056,3146109) a roadsign by a forking trail To Chhekhampar, clearly leading to the Tsum Valley (lately opened to trekking, permits required). Behind the actual bridge over the Buddhi Gandaki, situated itself at 1559m (0588090,3146298), the trail to Nyak forks up by a signpost Gum Pul at 1632m, (0588299,3146624).

Above the Syang Khola confluence well below Nyak and opposite Lakuwa, with a limited view up the Tsum Valley, at 1680m (0588371,3147114). A new bhatti in a freshly deforestrated place… According to the owner, one can also sleep here.

Between the two bridges in the Budhi Gandaki gorge – both of the bridges slowly but definitely requiring a thorough repair! – and just S of the second bridge at 1630m (0587454,3148728)- a fresh water source and a row of small niches and caves used by porters for sleeping or midday stops. (But Pewa is just less than 1km further.)

Pewa Two bhattis (looking new) and a quite large camping place, before the bridge over Pewa Khola. The trail junction from Nyak is at 1824m (0586581,3149455). (This alternative trail, following the right bank only and eventually from so far as Nagjet – can be attractive only when lanslides block the main trail or bridges are damaged.)

Deng 1833m (0585072,3151222) One lodge, one bhatti, one camping (or rather a field), one lodge being built. 10 Min. N of the village, but before the bridge to Ranagaon, a camping place (water?). The village looks already very Tibetan.

Ranagaon 1950m (0584928,3152833) It seemed one bhatti and/or a camp, but or inactive or closed for some reason, so that nobody was there. After crossing the bridge from Deng, two trails – one very steep direct to the village, and a second, horseable. The narrow and forrested part of the Buddhi Gandaki gorge broadens slightly making
place for fields and villages.

Just behind Ranagaon, at 2024m (0585261,3153185), a trail forks up north, most probably to the village of Bihi. The village of Bihi and especially the Sringi Gompa, have been recommended to us for a visit and an overnight stay. But although the village is ca. 100-150m above the trail contouring with a few up and downs from Ramagaon to Bihi Phedi, the Sringi Gompa is ca. 1000m higher on the slopes. The river valley turns definitely westwards, barley and millet
fields, Tibetan-looking villages, mani walls, chortens.

Bihi Phedi, i.e. lower Bihi, at 1969m (0584897,3153888) A bhatti in the process of re-building to a lodge (presently a large dormitory or so), a larger camping place, with a kitchen building. Camped here at the edge of high river bank due to the lack of place under the roof (3-4 industrial groups crowded together occupying all the camping place).

Ghap immediately by the E entrance is Buddha Camping with a bhatti, at ca. 2114m (0582000,3156688) 5 minutes before the village entrance a well-looking, sunny and hidden shower waterfall. By the gate choerten at ca. 2177m (0581560,3156776) a chapel with a prayer wheel and frescoes. High quality carved stones covering mani walls in the whole area of Bihi and Ghap.

We have not gone to Prok, situated on a high shelf above the river (S bank) roughly opposite of Ghap. The lower bridge leading to this village is just up the confluence of the Sringi Khola and the Buddhi Gandaki. The trail from Prok up the valley joins with the Ghap trail by Ghapsya on the S bank. From Prok, a side trip to the Kal Tal (Lake) at 3630m and some gompas nearby can be done, I have not found any more precise descriptions.

Ghapsya, i.e. the western part of Ghap on the S Budhi Gandaki bank, W of the school being built (blue roofs). Two lodges and campings, Manaslu Camp and Hotel and the nice Kyimaling Hotel in the process of being re-built to a lodge at 2172m, (0579853,3157136). Slept here. Note: LAMA, Larke Association of Manaslu Area.

Between Ghapsya and Namrung dense forests, no bhattis. One crosses Budhi Gandaki to the N bank over the famous narrow place with an rock arch over the river (ca. 2272m, 0578143,3157211), only to cross back later at 2485m (0577266,3157357) in order to climb up to Namrung. Before the village, a lone house at 2630m (0576056,3158199).

Namrung at 2648m (0575654,3158365) Thakali Hotel and Lodge and one more lodge and just another campsite, at least two shops with a lot of stuff, a telephone. The prices seem to be higher already. 100m behind the bridge a watchful and inquiring police checkpost, where the permits (only) are dutifully registered, which happens at 2660m (0575268,3158610). The trail passes now (buck)wheat fields of the Bharjan village, but no bhattis, and then up to Lihi in
a forest.

Lihi Slightly desolated community campsite (with a porter toilet!) and a health post by the school and the upper gompa. Another small unnamed camp site by the W village exit chorten and at 2941m (0572462,3160290), with a shop and a satellite telephone. An additional kitchen building without glass in the windows (…so we stayed in the nice shop!). The lady leading the business is very helpful. A (functioning) helipad.

By the bridge over the Hinan Khola (0571667,3160138), a lot of advertisements encouraging a visit to the Hinang village, less than 2km and some 400m height difference away. I do not remember if some lodges there were advertised as well. Because Hinang is on the way to the Himalchuli base camp, this is a nice invitation for a side trip there.

One follows now a the V-shaped valley high above the river from one to another village with a lot of entrance chortens, mani walls, some smaller or larger gompas.

Syogaon Noticed at least one campsite. Gompa at 2960m (0571481,3160960)

Sipgaon A quite large (freshly built?) new lodge, quite nice-looking, at 3040m (0570158,3161217).

Lho at 3083m (0569013,3161619) A frequented lodge and a camping just behind the colourful stupa, where we stayed. By the NW village exit (and the path to the gompa), a campsite (but, reported, without the possibility to obtain food). It is probably possible to stay overnight in the monastery or the monastery school, inquire. The price level for food is slightly higher as below.

Syala 3496m (0566012,3161655) A slightly messy village, just a pity in such beautiful place. At least one bhatti and a shop. Noticed two or more campsites, one above and one below the village.

After the Syala ridge one crosses two glacial streams flowing from Pungyen (simple bridges) and enters a broad valley of Samagaon, surrounded by high white peaks.

Samagaon The SE entrance chorten at 3539m (0563665,3162489). Although atmospheric, an incredibly dirty village, due to the large yak and dzo herds, the dung seem to cover everything, with an overwhelming smell. In the N part of the village, well below the gompa, at least three lodges, all with campsites, in different stages of being built, Norbu, Samagaon and seemingly the best one, the large Manaslu, where we stayed (shop, telephone, restaurant with a printed menu, rooms, electricity, also solar). Be warned, they have a higher price level. Meals a la carte – and small portions. By the lodges cluster a (looking new) MCAP checkpoint, at 3517m (0562979,3163040). It is open, but inactive in terms of checking our permits. Between the village and the lodges, by a chorten, a police post, also desinterested to inquire. From Samagaon we have made a very recommendable side trip to Pungyen Gompa (chorten at 4048m, 0561693,3159065), probably more atmospheric than the other popular trip, climbing high to the Manaslu Base Camp along the Manaslu Glacier fall.

The valley turns north, one crosses the head morraine of the Manaslu Glacier and follows the river along a few pastures with a lot of building ruins, passing the upper tree limit on the way. One crosses the one-before-last bridge over Buddhi Gandaki at ca. 3954m (0562244,3169118) and climbs the ridge between rivers up to Samdo.

Samdo The S entrance chorten at 3894m (0562086,3169985). Three lodges in the lower (SW) part of the village, Yak (large), Tibetan Twins (medium) and Tashi Delek (small). Campgrounds E of this village part. A possibility to hire horses, also towards Larkya La, but expect higher prices. The Tibetan border is presently officially closed by the Chinese occupants (previously open to the locals). Noticed no checkposts in Samdo. From the village, we have made a side trip to one of the tops of the Pana Dada, better known as Samdo Ri, at 5189m (0563374,3172325), P.5177 on the maps. Quite a few other side trips possibilities, especially somehow popular is the Lajyang La at the Tibetan border and going up the valley north towards the Fukang Glacier.

The trail to the Larkya La leads NW over the last Buddhi Gandaki at 3893m (0561450,3170861) to the place which was once Larkya Bazaar (it was a seasonal trade place with tents), and then takes the valley to the west, traversing the northern slopes above a few kharkas with views up the Syanche Glacier.

Larkya Phedi vel Dharamsala, (4467m,0557303,3171032). Situated just below the front morraine of the Larkya Glacier. In the height of the trekking season, the stone hut was completely taken over by the agency trekking group porters and the kitchen personal, waking up at 3 in the night for the ascent. The campsite is in a slightly messy situation, a lot of pollution of all kinds, especially caused by the large trekking industry groups leftovers… That is why some individual tourist prefer to sleep in bivouac bags anywhere but in the hut, but be warned that the temperatures in the night are almost always below freezing. A tent is definitely advisable, at leas in the height of the trekking season.

The descriptions of the route over Larkya La are not always clear and precise and omit a few important facts.

• The route over Larkya La is marked from just above Samdo to just above Bimthang by three meter high steel poles, brown with the yellow-white-yellow MCAP marking. Usually, they are placed in sight of each other, so that you can (hopefully) see the next pole standing by one of them. By a good visibility the route finding is reduced to
  following these poles.
• The route follows consequently and all the time from the Larkya Phedi to the scree slopes W of the pass the northern (so the orographically left) edge of the Larkya Glacier, without touching the proper glacier in any place.
• Directly after Larkya Phedi the trail goes in the depression below the glacier side morrain and the mild slopes to the north until a green deep lake, and then traverses well above it – a good viewpoint at 4776m, (0554752,3171614). After the lake, the trails climbs the side morraine to the left by a two characteristic stone cairns and follows it until a stone shelter at 4900m is reached.
• The stone hut at 4900m, (0553515,3171585) looks good and well-maintained, with an intact roof, windows and doors, which can be closed. (The door was open, unfortunately I have not entered the shelter to examine its interior. Inquire in Samdo, if you want to be assured if you can use it for an overnight stay.)
• The route between the stone shelter hut at 4900m and the pass crossing place at ca. 5150m is slightly less clear and can cause problems by bad visibility or after a snowfall, because it crosses some kind of a glacier retreat area where a side tongue of the glacier coming from NW (Cho Himal, Larkya Peak North) joins the Larkya
  Glacier. This area is generally very mildly sloped up, but covered with a lot of small morraine hills (small ups and downs on the heaps of snowed boulders…) until three frozen lakes directly to the W of the hut are reached – 5097m, (0551882,3171571).
• From the lakes, there is a short climb SW up the side morraine leading you to the pass crossing at 5145m (0551079,3171530) with another (but roofless and decaying) stone hut ruin, a lot of cairns and the prayer flags. The prayer flags (presently?) are not so clearly visible when approaching from the E, as it is often claimed. The
  actual pass (the height quoted often as 5105m) lies some 50m below and ca. 300m to the S of the hut on the crevasses-rich glacier – and, of course, nobody goes there. The topographic map suggest a trail crossing at ca. (0551400,3171500), which is about 300m E of the hut ruin.
• From the hut follow the poles along the morraine ridge to the SW until you reach the pole at 5156m (0550639,3171392), and then later generally NWW-W traversing down the usually snowed scree slopes.
• The most tiresome part of the crossing is the steep descent to the valley leading to Bimthang, over the usually snowed boulders and scree, with the path extremely slippery. Do not expect steps, most of the people cross the pass with very inadequate shoes without profiled soles, so that the path is being made by tip-toeing with training
  shoes to a long, slippery band. It takes a lot of time until one reaches the snow-free ground. The bottom of the scree slope is reached after descending a final small ridge by the pole at 4550m (0548535,3171855), where the trail turns sharply SW and descends mildly along the low Salpudada Glacier morraine.
• The often asked question is if crampons of any kind are advisable. If there is snow, by descending along the well-trodden and artificially (it is: man-made) slippery trail in the middle of the trekking season, one wishes to have some for two hours, but if there were no trail, for descending snowed scree slopes one would not need
  any crampons – they would be even too awkward and maybe dangerous.
• It can be surprising, but from the technical and navigational point of view, crossing the pass in the otherwise direction should be easier, although a much larger height differences are to be mastered.

Pheriche The first kharka (pasture) with water is called Pheriche, like the village below Everest, according to Japanese sources. We camped here, slightly above a ruins of a small hut, at ca. 4383m, (0547751,3171271) but most of the people would prefer to go further, mostly as far as Bimthang, where the whole personnel of trekking groups can find a sure shelter.

Larche and Thabuche are next pasture areas, with sources of water, e.g. the one at 4098m (0546701,3170665). Situated behind the Salpudada Glacier morraines, heights approximately between 4200m and 3900m, are scattered with ruines of buildings – some of them can be covered by a tarp, for example the ones at 4046m (0546428,3170355).

Bimthang, at 3694m (0546271,3168192). Similar to Larkya Phedi it seems to be another artificial creation of the trekking industry demands. A beatiful large side morraine pasture – these views around! – being systematically covered by makeshift bhattis and lodges with a shrinking campsite for the ever-growing groups. The industrial trekking group members sleep in tents and eat meals prepared by the kitchen crew in the makeshift buildings of this seasonal village, while portes spend their wages on rakshi in the nearby bhattis. There is at least five so increasingly called porter lodges (we stayed in one of them), but be prepared to share your sleep space with drunken porters and/or the kitchen of just another group. An extraordinarily loud place, this Bimthang, so if you are not in a mood for an apres-pass party, sleep in a tent well away from the buildings.

The bridge below Bimthang Glacier is damaged, but still can be crossed (danger). It is nearby the trail junction at 3606m, (0546042,3166962). The traffic follows a slightly awkward and makeshift trail crossing the Bimthang Glacier just below the green lake and above the place where the river flows out of the glacier, heading through boulders and gravel to the right (W) glacier high morraine. The morraine crest is crossed opposite the bridge through a kind of a small pass with a spectacular view of the west Manaslu slopes. 3621m, (0546018,3166908).

Below this excellent view point at the side morraine the trail enters the beautiful forests of the upper Dudh Khola valley. Pines, rhododenrons, bamboo, Spanish moos… There is a number of kharkas (meadows or alps) in the forests between the Bimthang glacier and Karche, with confusingly varying names, differing strongly between various maps and guidebooks. Ruins of buildings on many of these meadows, good water usually available.

By the wooden bridge above Hompuk over the clear stream flowing in the sunny forest from the valley beside the Bintang glacier is a perfect place to wash the Larkya La dust, at 3475m (0545725,3166618). The actual kharka of Hompuk is probably crossed by the trail just further on, if this is the one at 3425m (0545758,3166390), with Maoist slogans on a large rock and some building ruins.

Yak Kharka seems to be the only existing and bravely (wo)manned bhatti between Bimthang and Karche, a perfect stop for a lunch. 3039m, (0544094,3164172). (The name of the place according to the signboard of the bhatti.)

Below Yak Kharka the trail goes definitely down to the river and follows it further on, crossing two-three smaller landslides caused by the river erosion. The bridge over the Suti Khola is reached at 2690m (0541215,3163650). After this confluence the valley generally broadens.

Karche The Himalayan Lodge and Hotel (with a nice camp, but you can also sleep by the kitchen) has no chances by the people knowing what expects them in Gowa, just 1-1.5h below. Situated at 2691m (0541154,3163528), is just 5min. behind the bridge over the Suti Khola. It seems to be the uppermost constantly inhabited village in the Dudh Khola valley.

The main broad trail traverses looping around the characteristic hill in the side ridge south of Karche, then enters definitely a populated area. One can probably cross the hill via a small pass in the ridge.

Gowa vel Ghoa, has a large new lodge and a campsite at 2581m (0539670,3160716), however built without a washroom and even without a toilet (you have the open defecation option in the fields around). Anyway, we stayed here.

Tilje 2291m (0537551,3158346) The Larkya La Lodge seems to be a well-established institution without any competition in sight.

After the bridge in Tilje one descends in a forrested area on on the SE bank of the Dudh Khola to the Marsyangdi River valley, already clearly in sight in many places. A long bridge back to the NW bank and Thonje.

Thonje 1952m (0534972,3156242) The fact that the numerous Annapurna Circuit lodges in the Dhorapani part of the village (i.e. after the bridge to the western Marsyangdi bank) are just in reach causes that although the village looks nice, it caters only to the local needs.

Dhorapani. The amount of the lodges and the range of choice and quality is overwhelming after the Manaslu Circuit… The trail junction is at 1927m (0534864,3156033). A few minutes going SE from the juction the watchful ACAP and police checkpost controls the ACAP permit and fees, while almost ignoring your Manaslu permits – but not TIMS. It seems that checking the documents to enter the Annapurna area is much more important than controlling the MCAP and the Manaslu permits as you exit the restricted area. The post is at 1928m (0534903,3155980). We went on to Karte for the night stay.

We treat the well-known Annapurna Circuit trail much less exactly, concentrating on news. The worst news is that there is a progress in the building the new road from Besi Sahar, consequently on the right bank of the Marsyangdi, partly destroying the old trail. The industrial landscapes of the freshly blasted road, especially after the almost idyllic Manaslu Circuit are very disappointing. The road should eventually reach Manang, making the Annapurna Circuit as it is (was?) a nonsense.

Karte Intinsive road building just opposite this village. There is a lot of trouble south of Karte due to the fact that the foot trail unfortunately follows the road just being built (stones falling, landslides, industrial landscapes, steep and slippery places…)

Tal Besi An army post with a helipad above it, at 1702m (0536691,3149028). Intensive road works by the inflow of the large Myardi Khola.

Sattare A serious blasting of the rocks for the building of the road opposite this village has been performed as we trekked here, with soldiers stopping the trail traffic…

Below Jagat A huge landslide due to the side effects of the road building, at 1193m (0540188,3142604). The trail changed the route N of the landslide over a previously existing good bridge to the E bank, only to go back to the W bank just below the landslide a few hundreds of meters, over a makeshift bamboo bridge at 1200m (0540233,3142199). Intensive works on the road stretch crossing the dangerous landslide.

Syange The new roadhead cannot be reached by vehicles due to a landslide below (opposite Bahundanda?).

Above Ngadi It seems a road is being build also on this side of the Marsyangdi River, a lot od heavy building equipment present.

Bhulbhule W of the bridge over Marsyangdi: an ACAP checkpoint by the bus stop, not interested for trekkers leaving the area, at 816m (0536444,3130230). Very frequent minibuses to Besisahar, it seems they go each hour. The communication connections improved lately have reached the same day Bandipur via Besisahar and Dumre, starting the day walking from Bahundanda. Following the dusty broad road from Bhulbhule via Khudi to the boomtown of Besisahar along the motorable road is not attractive anymore.

Comments on the touristic development

Industrial trekking Most of the people do this trek as members of an industrially organised trekking group, which are inevitably forced to do the trail according to a previously set schedule or itinerary. The industry groups are usually well overblown in terms of the personnel they employ, with often 2-4 porters and/or other crew pro group member. This means, for a 10-persons group there’s 20-40 employees, all of them needing food, shelter (which means toilets as well…). The pollution of all kinds grows rapidly along the trail, especially when the trek leaders in field do not care about environmental (and social) issues, which is unfortunately, as personally observed, very often the case.

Strangely, the negative impact is the largest, when the agencies follow the somehow usual colonial or the caste-system society way of organising the trek, it means mirroring, so-to-say, “social layers”: sahibs and memsahibs, a leader – sometimes a westerner, sirdar, guides and sherpas, cooks, servants – and with the often underequipped porters as the lowest layer. The problem is that while the customers are provided with all luxuries (OK, they paid for this), often already the next “social layer” with guides, cooks and other crew are neither provided with tents and/or camping equipment nor even all fed from the common trek kitchen. This is especially not the case for numerous porters, which usually must feed themselves completely separately and on their own and from their own provisions, sleep anywhere else – and, of course, they are not allowed to use the camp toilets. So they stop for lunch in forests, burning free wood and for the night stay fill all available space in bhattis where their group camps – or sleep anywhere around…

The tourist infrastructure along the Manaslu Circuit, due to the fact that the individual trekking there is quite effectively discouraged by the agency-controlled permit policy, develops in an unexpected way. The customers inquiring in some trekking agencies, if the trek around Manaslu can be organised as a lodge-based trek are often wrongly informed, that this is definitely not possible, and that even if there are some lodges in the area, they are porter lodges. This is meant to sound deprecative and is harmful for the local people, trying their best in investing in their lodges, but leads to selling a broader range of services more expensively. However, this strange description porter lodge is somehow partially true, but in slightly different sense. The appearing tourist infrastructure is strangely skewed to the needs rather of the trekking group personnel, and only in parts to the direct needs of the the actual tourists themselves.

A typical example can be the fresh new lodge in Goa (Gowa) in the Dudh Khola valley. It has a very large camping ground (previously a corn field, now they try to plant grass there), a small (and inefficient) kitchen and a small dining room, but large additional rooms, where the trek group cooks can work, a shop, well stocked with alcohol, but missing packaged noodle soup. Nice four double rooms, but a much larger porter dormitory and… No toilet and no wash room built, not to mention a shower. Prepared for tourists, who do not ask for ready-made dishes, do not buy food provisions, do not wash and do not need a toilet. Not quite a normal development.

---

Jacek A. Jankowski
Last modified: Wed Dec 23 12:36:17 CET 2009
Adapted for WordPress: Sat 6 Feb 16:57:46 CET 2021