Three lazy weeks in Valle Maira in Piemont. First, a week on the middle part of the Percorsi Occitani trail. Then, almost two weeks penetrating side valleys, based in an old Piemontese house.
We chose the central part of the Percorsi Occitani trail in the upper Valle Maira, leaving the car in Marmora Finello and making a loop around the valley from there. Our route was (overnight stays in bold face):
Marmora Finello (Lou Pitavin) — taxi — Paschero over Stroppo 1079 — San Peyre church — Cucchiales — Ciamino — San Michele Inferiore 1388 — Colle Bettone 1831 — Col Giovanni 1872 — Elva 1637 — Chiosso — Colle San Michele 1935 — Allemandi 1540 — Castiglione 1457 — Colle Albeno 1819 — Grange Podio 1627 — Grange Choligiera 1771 — Colle Sarasin 2040 — Grange Serri — Vallone di Traversiera — Lausetto 1510 — Ponte Maira 1401 — Grange Rossetto — Colle Ciarbonet 2187 — Viviere 1713 — Pratorotondo — Chialvetta 1494 — by M. Ciabert 2227 — Colle Soleglio Bue 2338 — Grange Soleglio Bue 1883 — Borgata Preit 1541 — Canosio — Marmora Finello 1270 (Lou Pitavin)
We made the trail in the classical way, already established as a fine alternative approach to sporty hiking — making relatively short walks from one poste tappa to another, which are situated in half-abandoned hamlets strewn all over the valley slopes. With lazy breakfasts and excessive dinners, enjoying the original local kitchen (and Piemontese wine!) as much as the alpine landscapes and joys of the trail.
One of the highlights of this part of the trail is the view from a view point nearby Colle Sarasin, a pass in a side ridge high above the valley: Gallery (10 images)
Colle Sarasin :: looking back to Colle Albeno
Colle Sarasin :: looking east down the Valle Maira
Colle Sarasin :: the mountans opposite :: Colle di Soleglio Bue surroundings :: Roca di Cairi
Colle Sarasin :: the mountans opposite :: Colle di Soleglio Bue surroundings :: Vallone di Unerzio
Colle Sarasin :: the mountans opposite :: Vallone di Unerzio
Colle Sarasin :: the opposite Monte Midia with Colle Ciarbonet behind
Colle Sarasin :: the uppermost Valle Maira
Colle Sarasin :: the pass proper, the broad Monte Boulliagna behind
Colle Sarasin :: the viewpoint surroundings
A few more pictures taken along the whole trail, starting with a huge breakfast menu and finishing with an irresistible dessert offer of Lou Pitavin in Marmora Finello: Gallery (109 images)
Paschero over Stroppo :: San Giovanni church
San Peyre :: Paschero below, upper Valle Maira behind
San Peyre :: the church
Cucchiales-Sottano :: in the village
Borgata Ciamino :: percorsi occitani trail marker
Borgata Ciamino :: percorsi occitani trail marker
By Borgata Ciamino :: an old mule path
By Borgata Ciamino :: signs of winter coming :: an autumn crocus
Below San Martino :: loking down the valley
Below San Martino :: on the slope
Borgata San Marino :: coffee
San Martino :: the village museum
Above San Martino
By Colle San Giovanni :: lower parts of Vallone di Elva
By Colle San Giovanni :: upper parts of Vallone di Elva
By Elva :: the church in sight
By Elva :: the church in sight
By Elva :: the upper Vallone di Elva
Elva :: the bedroom window view
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: interior
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: frescoes by Hans Clemer
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: frescoes by Hans Clemer
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: frescoes by Hans Clemer
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: frescoes by Hans Clemer
Elva :: Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta :: frescoes by Hans Clemer
Elva :: the bedroom window view
Elva :: the bedroom window view :: Monte Camoscere and Pelvo d'Elva in the clouds
Elva :: the bedroom window view :: Monte Camoscere in the cloud window
Chiosso Superiore
By Rocca Orsieres :: Colle San Giovanni in sight
By Rocca Orsieres :: Elva and yesterday's trail
By Rocca Orsieres :: Elva on the opposite valley side, zoomed
By Rocca Orsieres :: silver thistle by the trail
Traversing to Colle San Michele :: looking south
Traversing to Colle San Michele :: looking towards Colle San Giovanni opposite
Allemandi :: San Michele church and village
Allemandi :: posto di tappa Al Chersogno
Allemandi :: posto di tappa Al Chersogno :: Occitania
Allemandi :: posto di tappa Al Chersogno :: a rare view of Monte Chersogno
Castiglione :: an old mill
Colle Albeno :: resting in the shade, Rocca Narbena behind
Colle Albeno :: mountains on the other side of the Valle Maira
Colle Albeno :: looking up the Valle Maira, La Scaletta, Monte Oronaye
Colle Albeno :: looking up the Valle Maira, La Scaletta, Monte Oronaye
Grange Albeno :: the alp below the pass
Above Ussolo :: a valley view
Grange Podio :: or what remains of it :: Colle Sarasin in sight
Below Colle Sarasin :: looking eastwards
Colle Sarasin :: Colle and Punta Albeno, the lower Valle Maira
Colle Sarasin :: the opposite Vallone di Unerzio with Colle di Soleglio Bue and Colle Ciarbonet surroundings
Colle Sarasin :: the opposite Monte Midia with Colle Ciarbonet behind
Colle Sarasin :: Chialvetta valley with Colle di Soleglio Bue surroundings
Colle Sarasin :: Valle del Maurin, the pass proper, the broad Monte Boulliagna behind
Colle Sarasin :: Rocca di Ciarm, Monte Ruissas
Below Colle Sarasin and above Grange Serri :: looking down to Ponte Maira
Colle Ciarbonet :: looking up the valley
Colle Ciarbonet :: the view towards Vallone di Unerzio with Bric Cassin in the middle
Colle Ciarbonet :: the alp buildings above Vallone di Unerzio :: Bric Cassin
Below Colle Ciarbonet :: Monte Cassorso, Bric Casin, Monte Oserot
Below Colle Ciarbonet :: on the way down to Viviere
Vallone di Unerzio :: Pratorotondo, Viviere
Viviere :: the rifugio buildings
Viviere :: the well-earned beer
Viviere :: the well-earned appartment
Viviere :: evening moods
Chialvetta :: the Occitanian flag
Chialvetta :: the Occitanian flag
Chialvetta :: Osteria della Gardetta
Chialvetta :: Osteria della Gardetta
Chialvetta :: the village
Chialvetta :: a green window
Chialvetta :: a flowery window
Chialvetta :: the view towars Colle Sarasin :: we were there
Chialvetta :: the view towars Colle Sarasin zoomed :: we were there
Chialvetta :: La Locanda di Chialvetta
By Monte Ciabert :: the valley above Chialvetta
By Monte Ciabert :: Vallone di Unerzio :: Colle Ciarbonet surroundings
By Monte Ciabert :: Vallone di Unerzio surroundings
Above Monte Ciabert :: Vallone di Unerzio :: Rocca Peroni, La Scaletta, Vanclava, Monte Oronaye in clouds, Monte Freid, Colle Ciarbonet
Above Monte Ciabert :: Monte Freid, Colle Ciarbonet, upper Valle Maira
Below Colle Soleglio Bue :: approaching the pass
Colle Soleglio Bue :: the scree ust below the pass
Colle Soleglio Bue :: the pass ridge, looking northeast
Colle Soleglio Bue :: mountains above Lago Negro :: Monte La Bianca, Becco Grande, Rocca la Meja
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: the view towards Monte Cassorso, Rocca la Meja to the left
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: the ridge towards Monte Cassorso with Monte Piutas
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: the ridge towards Monte Cassorso with Monte Piutas
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: Rocca Peroni, La Scaletta, Vanclava, Monte Oronaye, Monte Freid, Colle Ciarbonet
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: Vanclava, Monte Oronaye, Monte Freid, Colle Ciarbonet
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: looking down towards Chialvetta
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: looking northeast :: the pas approach from Chialvetta
Above Colle Soleglio Bue :: the northeastern ridge with the pass
Descending from Colle Soleglio Bue :: Monte la Bianca, Rocca la Meja
Descending Colle Soleglio Bue :: Monte la Bianca, Valletta (Lago Negro), Rocca la Meja
Soleglio Bue itself :: Valletta behind leading to Lago Negro, Monte la Bianca
Below Soleglio Bue :: trail markers
Below Soleglio Bue :: looking towards Valletta leading to Lago Negro
Preit :: approaching the rifugio just before the rain
Preit :: the whole dormitory as a room for two :: a happy post-shower selfie
Valle del Preit :: maple trees disease
Marmora Vernetti :: Ceaglio, after season
Marmora Vernetti :: Ceaglio, after season
Marmora Finello :: Lou Pitavin :: it never rains, it pours...
Marmora Finello :: Lou Pitavin :: the garden view
Marmora Finello :: Lou Pitavin :: the well
Marmora Finello :: Lou Pitavin :: an obligatory selfie
Marmora Finello :: Lou Pitavin :: the menu for dolci... :: the end of the loop
After finishing the trek we decided to give up camping or making trips with a tent — due to the weather — and stayed first in a simple apartment over a carabinieri post in Acceglio and then in a beautifully renovated old house in Borgata San Sebastiano by Marmora (see a separate post about this unusual place). From both locations we made a few day trips to the side valleys of Valle Maira and its surroundings. These on foot included:
- A walk on the top of the main valley: from Sorgenti del Maira to Chiappera and back via Saretto.
- Crossing Passo della Cavalla: Sorgenti del Maira 1628 — Grange & Lago Visaisa ~2000 — Valle D’Apsoi with Bivacco Bonelli 2323 — Passo della Cavalla 2539 — above Punta Bessie 2326 — Grange Pausa 2056 — Sorgenti del Maira.
- A walk to the hamlets above Marmora (Sentiero Giors Boneto): Borgata San Sebastiano 1350 — Borgata Tolosano 1510 — Urzio 1457 — Borgata Reinero 1470 — Borgata della Parocchia 1588 — B. Reinero 1470 — Arata 1390 — San Sebastiano 1350.
- Around Rocca la Meja: Colle del Preit 2083 — Colle Margerina 2420 — Lago della Meja 2480 — Colle d’Ancoccia 2533 — Colle del Mulo 2527 — Colle della Valletta 2575 — traverse of northern slopes of Rocca la Meja — Lago Nero 2240 — Passagio del Preit 2147 — Colle del Preit 2083.
- To Punta Tempesta: Colle d’Esischie 2370 — traverse of Monte Pelvo 2555 — Colle Sibolet 2532 — Punta Tempesta 2679 — and back to Colle d’Esischie on the same way.
- Around Scaletta: Road above Viviere p1813 — above Prato Ciorliero ~1950 — Passo dell’Escalon 2415 — Colle della Scaletta 2614 — Laghi de Roburent: Superiore 2428 and Mediano 2355 — Passo Peroni 2578 — Passo La Croce Occidentale 2650 — Bivacco Le Due Valli 2610 — Passo La Croce — Colletta Vittorio 2522 — Caserma dell’Escalon 2270 — above Prato Ciorliero ~1950 — road above Viviere p1813.
A collection of pictures from this part of the stay in Valle Maira: Gallery (189 images)
By Sorgenti del Maira :: Rocca Rossa, Valle Maurin and Rocca Provenzale
By Sorgenti del Maira :: the uppermost Valla Maira with Rocca Provenzale zoomed
By Sorgenti del Maira :: Vallonasso de Sautron outlet, Rocca Rossa
Chiappera with Rocca Provenzale
Chiappera with Rocca Provenzale
Chiappera :: a bench by the church
Chiappera :: a bench by the church
Chiappera :: the northern part of the hamlet
Chiappera :: a village house
Chiappera :: in the village
La Scuola di Chiappera :: espresso doppio macchiato
La Scuola di Chiappera :: the view towards Sorgenti del Maira
Above Saretto :: the view towards Visaisa
Acceglio :: the church view from the Palazzo dei Carabinieri
Above Sorgenti del Maira :: looking down the Valle Maira
Below Visaisa :: Monte Boulliagna on the other side of the valley
Below Visaisa :: Monte Boulliagna on the other side of the valley
By Lago Visaisa :: Auto Vallonasso avobe upper Visaisa and Apsoi valleys
by Lago Visaisa :: upper Visaisa and Apsoi valleys, Monte Soubeyran
By Lago Visaisa :: Ruderi dell'Albergo Principe di Piemonte
By Lago Visaisa :: upper Visaisa valleys, the drying lake below Punta le Teste
Upper Visaisa :: traversing to Lago d'Apsoi
Upper Visaisa :: traversing to Lago d'Apsoi
Upper Visaisa :: traversing to Lago d'Apsoi :: the lake and Chiappera village below
Valle d'Apsoi :: Bivacco Bonelli in sight, lone Cima delle Manse
Bivacco Bonelli :: exterior
Bivacco Bonelli :: interior
Above Bivacco Bonelli :: Valle d'Apsoi with Auto Vallonasso and Monte Oronaye
By Lago delle Marie :: a plateau pasture
Above Bivacco Bonelli :: Lago d'Apsoi below Auto Vallonasso, Colle d'Enchiausa
By Lago delle Marie :: Colle de Villadel
By Lago delle Munie :: looking to the main valley, green Punta Culour behind
By Lago delle Munie :: the broad Colle delle Munie with Rocher Peyron behind
By Lago delle Munie :: Monte Soubeyran
Passo della Cavalla :: Monte Soubeyran, a scree valley, Valle Maurin, Punta le Teste
Passo della Cavalla :: barracks behind the pass :: mountains of upper Valle Maurin
Passo della Cavalla :: barracks behind the pass, Monte Soubeyran
Below Passo della Cavalla :: Monte Sautron, Rocca Bianca
Below Passo della Cavalla :: Rocca Bianca, surroundings of Infernetto and Autaret valleys with Brec de Chambeyron behind
By Punta Bessie :: Rocca Bianca, surroundings of Infernetto and Autaret valleys with Brec de Chambeyron behind
By Punta Bessie :: Saretto village below, Monte Boulliagna, the main Valle Maira
By Punta Bessie :: Colle del Sautron surrondings :: Monte Viraysse, Monte Vallonasso, Monte Sautron
By Punta Bessie :: Monte Viraysse
Grange Pausa :: the ridge towards Monte Sautron
Grange Pausa :: on the valley step :: Saretto village and the main Valle Maira
Above Sorgenti del Maira :: on the military road, Auto Vallonasso
Above Sorgenti del Maira :: on the military road, Rocca Rossa
Above Sorgenti del Maira :: Valle Maurin, Chiappera village, Rocca Provenzale
Above Sorgenti del Maira :: Rocca Rossa, Valle Maurin, Rocca Provenzale
Sorgenti del Maira :: a selfie on the defunct camping
La Scuola di Chiappera :: the view towards Sorgenti del Maira
Dronero :: Ponte del Diavolo
Dronero :: a view from the Ponte del Diavolo
Ponte Marmora :: the turbine temple
Borgata Chiesa San Michele :: what a kitsch!
Ussolo :: in the village
Ussolo :: Nepal? Tibet? Piemont!
Ussolo :: Posto tappa La Carlina
Ussolo :: Posto tappa La Carlina
Ussolo :: in the village :: Nepal?
Ussolo :: in the village
Ussolo :: in the village
Ussolo :: in the village
Ussolo :: in the village :: typical paintings
Between Camoglieres and Macra :: San Pietro Chapel with old frescoes
Tolosano :: the past and the present
Borgata San Sebastiano :: at the garden entrance
Borgata San Sebastiano :: sundial
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the view from the gallery
Borgata San Sebastiano :: our fancy bedroom
By Reinero :: an old mule path
Torello :: Chapel :: paintings of Giors Boneto
Torello :: Chapel :: paintings of Giors Boneto
Torello :: by the chapel :: paintings of Giors Boneto
Reinero :: the church
Reinero :: just a window
Parrocchia de Marmora :: Valone di Marmora, Reinero with the curch to the left
Parrocchia de Marmora :: Valone di Marmora, Vallone del Preit
Parrocchia de Marmora :: the church
Parrocchia de Marmora :: old frescoes
Parrocchia de Marmora :: the old frescoes
Parrocchia de Marmora :: the old frescoes
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the sundial
Borgata San Sebastiano :: in the kitchen
Borgata San Sebastiano :: lectures in the bedroom
Borgata San Sebastiano :: a selfie in the bedroom
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the view from the gallery
La Meja :: Agriturismo
La Meja :: Monte Oserot, Rocca Brancia, Monte Scaletta, Passo della Gardetta, Mote Cassorso
La Meja :: Monte Oserot surroundings
La Meja :: Agriturismo below Bric Severino and Monte Cassorso
La Meja :: the ridge of Rocca la Meja
La Meja :: Rocca la Meja ridge
La Meja :: the view towards Gardetta surroundings, Monte Servagno, Monte Oserot, Monte Cassorso
Below Colle Margherina :: Rocca la Meja top
Below Colle Margherina :: Rocca la Meja tops
Below Colle Margherina :: a local inhabitant
Colle Margherina :: the view towards Valle Stura and Alpi Maritimi
By Lago della Meja :: Rocca la Meja and Colle della Meja
By Lago della Meja :: Colle della Meja
Colle d'Ancoccia :: looking towards Colle d'Esischie surroundings
Colle d'Ancoccia :: looking towards Gardetta, the dark high Monte Oronaye appears
Colle d'Ancoccia :: looking towards Colle d'Esischie surroundings
By Colle del Mulo :: looking south, Cima Picconiera
Passo della Valetta :: looking towards Colle d'Ancoccia
Passo della Valetta :: looking towards Becco Grande
Below Passo della Valletta :: Rocca la Meja view
Below Passo della Valletta :: Rocca la Meja view
Below Passo della Valletta
Below Passo della Valletta :: Rocca la Meja view
Below Passo della Valletta :: above the La Valletta valley, Rocca la Meja
Below Rocca la Meja :: its northern wall
Below Rocca la Meja :: the view back towards Passo della Valetta
Below Rocca la Meja :: the view towards Vallone del Preit
Below Rocca la Meja :: the view back towards Passo della Valetta and Becco Grande
Lago Nero :: the evening lull
Lago Nero :: a selfie
Towards Passaggio del Preit :: a scree slope to be traversed :: Gardetta surroundings
La Meja :: by Passagio del Preit :: Gardetta in clouds
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the evening chill
Vallone di Marmora :: the view towards Colle del Mulo
By Colle d'Esischie :: the view towards Colle del Mulo, Becco Grande, Rocca la Meja
By Monte Pelvo :: the windy ridge
By Monte Pelvo :: Vallone di Marmora
Jus below Punta Tempesta
Punta Tempesta :: in clouds
Punta Tempesta :: in clouds :: looking east
Punta Tempesta :: in clouds :: looking south
Back to Colle d'Esischie :: by Rocca Negra
By Colle d'Esischie :: flower boy
By Colle d'Esischie :: flowers for drying
Santuario San Magno :: the church
Santuario San Magno :: memorabilia in the main church
Santuario San Magno :: frescoes in the oldest chapel
Santuario San Magno :: frescoes in the oldest chapel
Santuario San Magno :: frescoes in the oldest chapel
Above Viviere :: the military road up Vallone di Unerzio
Prato Ciorliero :: the pasture
Vallone Costa Denti :: ascending
Passo dell'Escalon
Below Passo dell'Escalon :: looking down to Vallone Costa Denti
Between Passo dell'Escalon and Colle della Scaletta
Below Passo della Scaletta
Passo della Scaletta :: the mobile sign
Behind Passo della Scaletta :: Valle Stura and Alpi Marittime
Behind Passo della Scaletta :: Valle Stura and Alpi Marittime
Below Passo della Scaletta :: Lago (Superiore) de Roburent outlet towards Valle Stura
Below Passo della Scaletta :: Cima and Lago (Superiore) de Roburent, Cime de Peyrassin
Below Passo della Scaletta :: Cima de Peyrasin, Cima, Lago (Superiore) and Col de Roburent
Lago Superiore de Roburent
Between Lago Superiore and Lago Mediano de Roburent :: Passo Peroni in sight
Lago Mediano de Roburent
Lago Mediano de Roburent
Lago Mediano de Roburent :: towards Passo Peroni
Below Scaletta :: towards Passo Peroni
Passo Peroni :: looking towards Roburent lakes :: the dominant La Meyna peak
Passo Peroni :: looking towards Roburent lakes :: the dominant La Meyna peak
Passo Peroni :: looking towards Monte Osserot
Passo Peroni :: looking south over Valle Stura to Alpi Marittime
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: Passo and Rocca Peroni, La Scaletta
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: ditto
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: inside
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: the view throgh the open door
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: just another selfie
Bivacco Le Due Valli :: leaving :: Passo and Rocca Peroni behind
By Passo la Croce Orientale :: looking south over Valle Stura to Alpi Marittime
By Passo la Croce Orientale :: Rocca Brancia, Colle and Monte Oserot
By Passo la Croce Orientale :: following the old military road
By Passo la Croce Orientale :: Rocca Brancia, Colle and Monte Oserot
By Passo la Croce Orientale :: looking down towards Escalon and Valle di Unerzio
By Colletto Vittorio :: Monte Oserot boundary ridge
By Colletto Vittorio :: Rocca Briancia, Colle Oseror, Monte Oserot, boundary ridge
Behind Colletto Vittorio :: a good path down to Escalon
Behind Colletto Vittorio :: looking back to the pass
Caserma dell'Escalon :: looking down Vallone di Unerzio
Caserma dell'Escalon :: marmot's house backyard entrance...
Above Prato Ciorliero :: descending
Prato Ciorliero :: Piemontese cows at work
Vallone di Unerzio :: approaching Opera Vallo Alpino shelter
Borgata San Sebastiano :: sleeping much, much longer
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the view towards the valley outlet
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the house with the sun dial
Capella di San Sebastiano
Capella di San Sebastiano :: frescoes by Giovanni Balesoni in the interior
Mulino San Sebastiano :: the front with a mural by Giors Boneto
Mulino San Sebastiano :: the front with a mural by Giors Boneto
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the green valley
Borgata San Sebastiano :: the bedroom :: packed and ready to leave

Cucchiales-Sottano :: percorsi occitani trail marker