The Fann Mountains in Tajikistan, August 2018.

Our horoscope ,^) was very bad for the end of July 2018 due to an eclipse. :^(  See Susan Miller’s horoscope for Cancer, July 2018: […] The month’s second eclipse is due on July 27. This one is the hard one for us all, no matter what our sign. […] There is no doubt that the eclipse is the hardest one of 2018. Uranus is the planet of shock and awe, and it strikes suddenly, like a lightning bolt, without warning […].

Well, first the baggage of one of us was lost by the Aeroflot on the way to Samarkand in Uzbekistan and re-appeared only after an intensive and concerted action between Gdańsk, Warsaw, Moscow, Tashkent and Samarkand — leaving us just barely enough time to accomplish our mountain plans. Anyway, we made the most of our forced waiting time visiting the awesome monuments of Samarkand and Bukhara.

After an incredibly well organized transfer from Samarkand (Uzbekistan) over the Tajik border to Artuch (thanks to Artuch Travel!) we thought the bad luck is over. And then, already on the second day of the trek, the sole of one of our boots started to fall out, only to be accompanied by the sole of the second shoe on the third day. A strike sudden like a lightning bolt. Anyway. we found out a method of temporary fixing the soles as we trek forward and went on. But finally, on the fifth day the knee troubles of one of us intensified so badly, that we decided to change our plans. The astrologist had already known the fact as well: […] It may be that you know that your close partner is suffering in some way. […]

So, instead of making  v e r y  slowly — in over ten days — a traditional loop over the Fann Mts. along the well-defined route running through the points Artuch — Kulikaon — Alaudin Pass and Lakes — Mutne — Chimtarga Pass — Bolshoye Allo Lake — Zimtut, we stopped trekking at the Mutne/Mutniye Lake(s). We made a bivouac there for three nights and made two day-trips to the Eastern Kaznok Pass and towards the Chimtarga Pass. Then we retreated on our previous trail in order to spent two lazy days and nights nearby Alaudin Lakes and finally went down to Vertikal Alaudin camp, where we luckily fetched a jeep to get out of the wilderness. At the first sight a pity, such a fine weather, almost no ice or snow in crucial high places of the route — and we had to turn back… But the second thought is: what a beautiful trip!

Well, assess it yourself, an hour-by-hour report from the trail:

Gallery (206 images) Chukurak Lake, smaller Diamir behindChukurak Lake, the view towards Zierat LakeThe Artuch River valley :: starting the trek, Diamir seen behindThe Artuch River valley :: looking west, the Diamir loomingThe Artuch River valley :: climbing upstreamThe Artuch River valley :: towards KulikaonThe Artuch River valley :: the valley stepThe Artuch River valley :: looking backThe Artuch River valley :: on the valley stepThe Artuch River valley :: on the valley stepThe Artuch River valley :: entering the Kulikaon Lakes valleyThe Kulikaon Lakes :: a family trip Tajik wayThe Kulikaon Lake :: green Zierat pass, Aurondag behindThe Bibidjaon LakeThe Bibidjaon LakeThe Bibidjaon Lake :: Bivouac One :: rain comes from the Mirali wallThe Bibidjaon Lake :: Bivouac OneThe Bibidjaon Lake :: evening calmThe Bibidjaon Lake :: morning, waiting for the sunThe Bibidjaon Lake :: morning, the sun has comeThe AlaudinPass approach :: the Dushaha lakes below Maria Peak and its small glacierThe Alaudin Pass approachThe Alaudin Pass approach :: checking the heightThe Alaudin Pass approach :: looking west, the mountains south of the Kulikaon LakesThe Alaudin Pass :: iPhone photography :: Chapdara and Zamok peaksThe Alaudin Pass :: the Chapdara vel Alaudin LakesThe Alaudin Pass descend :: down the well trodden pathThe Alaudin Pass descend :: down the well trodden path :: fast 1000m down to the lakesThe Alaudin Pass descend :: let us stop hereThe Alaudin Pass descend :: let us stop hereThe Alaudin Pass descend :: Bivouac Two :: sloppyThe Alaudin Pass descend :: Bivouac Two :: Chapdara and the Politechnik wall in last sun raysThe Alaudin Pass descend :: Bivouac Two :: the sun is thereThe Alaudin Pass descend :: Bivouac Two :: the disciplined Tajik goatsThe Alaudin Pass descend :: looking back up the passThe Alaudin Pass descend :: looking down to the Chapdara / Alaudin LakesThe Alaudin Pass descend :: the blue lakeChapdara Lake :: looking up to the Alaudin PassChapdara vel bigger Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac ThreeChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: Politechnik wall and the Chapdara Peak behindChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: looking south up the Kaznok ValleyChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: cookingChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: evening, Adamtash peakChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: evening, Adamtash peak and MiraliChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: looking up to the Allaudin PassChapdara Lake :: Bivouac Three :: here comes the sunThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: turquoiseAscending to Mutne :: shoe(s) repairAscending to Mutne :: shoe(s) repairAscending to Mutne :: last treesAscending to Mutne :: the Piala LakeAscending to Mutne :: a steep valley stepAscending to Mutne :: shadow welcome, the Bodhona valley and Parandas with Zamok behindAscending to Mutne :: resting, Politechnik behindAscending to Mutne :: looking down towards the Allaudin LakesAscending to Mutne :: on the valley step at lastAscending to Mutne :: surrounding moutains, Parandas with ZamokAscending to Mutne :: the Mutne Lake(s) surrounding appears with Energia topMutne Lakes :: here at last :: the last sun raysMutne Lakes :: reachning a perfect camping place :: Bivouac Four to SixMutne Lakes :: the morraineMutne Lakes :: the last sun raysMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: watching the neighboursMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to SixMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to SixMutne Lakes :: panoramaMutne Lakes :: the Chimtarga Peak zoomedMutne Lakes :: the Energia Peak zoomedMutne Lakes :: the ridge Energia -- Kaznok zoomedMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: the last sun rays on the Parandas wallMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: foodMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: early morning panoramaMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: early morning panoramaKaznok pass trip :: Energia and Chimtarga PeaksKaznok pass trip :: Chimtarga Pass zoomedKaznok pass trip :: scree valley, Energia, Chimtarga and Mirali PeaksKaznok pass trip :: scree valley :: looking up the valley towarda the Kaznok Eastern passKaznok pass trip :: Chimtarga Peak portraitKaznok pass trip :: Chimtarga pass approachKaznok pass trip :: Zmieya ridgeKaznok pass trip :: on the snow fields below the Eastern Kaznok passKaznok pass trip :: donkeys climbing the Eastern Kaznok pass dangerous couloirKaznok pass trip :: it is our turn to climb itThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking south, the upper Kaznok River ValleyThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: the western pass; Energia and Chimtarga Pass and PeakThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking south, the upper Kaznok River ValleyThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: zooming far mountains to the southThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: surroundings of the Moskva Peak and the Dvoynoy PassThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: surroundings of the Biryuzovoye Lake, the Sugarhead PeakThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: the Chimtarga Pass zoomedThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: almost the whole Chimtarga Pass eastern approach pathThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking down the snowfields to the nort (our route)The Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking east :: Zamok, the smaller GanzaThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking East :: the Zamok PeakThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: looking East :: the Zamok PeakThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: the snow remnants by the pass, the smaller Ganza behindThe Eastern Kaznok Pass :: the Western Kaznok Pass slightly belowThe Western Kaznok Pass :: the descend path south to the Kaznok River valleyThe Western Kaznok Pass :: the Kaznok River valleyThe Western Kaznok Pass :: Energia, Chimtarga, MiraliThe Western Kaznok Pass :: the pass ridgeThe Western Kaznok Pass :: Energia, Chimtarga, MiraliThe Western Kaznok Pass :: The Chimtarga Peak portraitThe Western Kaznok Pass :: looking up to the Eastern Kaznok Pass, Zmieya to the leftThe Western Kaznok Pass :: The Zamok PeakThe Western Kaznok Pass :: Zamok, the smaller GanzaKaznok pass trip :: descending the endless scree slopes :: looking up the VAA passKaznok pass trip :: descending the endless scree slopesKaznok pass trip :: the interesting VAA pass zoomedKaznok pass trip :: descending :: looking up the VAA and Estern Kaznok aaproaching valleysMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: Energia and Chimtarga Peaks in shadowsMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: the sun has just disappeared behind the Chimtarga PeakMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: EnergiaMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: cookingMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: cookingMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: cookingMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: readingslideshow image Mutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: thinkingMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: the Parandas gloomingMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: evening moodsMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: evening moodsTowards Chimtarga trip :: morning:: the lone donkey grazingTowards Chimtarga trip :: on the frist central morraine above MutneTowards Chimtarga trip :: scree on the glacier :: pass viewTowards Chimtarga trip :: Zamok and Fagitor below, GanzaTowards Chimtarga trip :: passing glacier streamsTowards Chimtarga trip :: Zamok and Fagitor below, Ganza and both Kaznok passesTowards Chimtarga trip :: on the side morraine, Chimtarga Peak in shortcutTowards Chimtarga trip :: Ganza Peaks and both Kaznok passes belowTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: tent placesTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: Zamok, both small and great Ganza PeaksTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: Energia and teh Chimtarga PassTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: Chimtarga PassTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: sitting a portraitTowards Chimtarga trip :: First Bivouac (4100m) :: bouldersTowards Chimtarga trip :: A perfect tent place :: Location: N39.18458° E068.21524°. Elevation: 4103mTowards Chimtarga trip :: starting to descendTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: The Zamok Peak portraitTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: Ganza peaksTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: down the scree-covered glacierTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: down the scree-covered glacierTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: Mutne Lakes in sight againTowards Chimtarga trip :: descend :: the glacier stream feeding Mutne LakesTowards Chimtarga trip :: on the Mutniye Lake shoresTowards Chimtarga trip :: looking up Energia, Chimtarga and Mirali, the Dvuyazichniy GlacierTowards Chimtarga trip :: the characteristic lone rock...Towards Chimtarga trip :: ...surrounded in a circle... Magic?Towards Chimtarga trip :: the wall west of the smaller Mutne lakeTowards Chimtarga trip :: the Mutne Lake :: the massive glacier morraine :: VAA Pass, FangitorTowards Chimtarga trip :: the Mutne Lake :: FangitorTowards Chimtarga trip :: the smaller Mutne LakeTowards Chimtarga trip :: almost homeMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: not exactly a comfortable camping placeMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: tea, tea, tea...Mutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: a perfecly repaired shoeMutne Lakes :: Bivouac Four to Six :: tents folded, saying goodbyeDescending the Kaznok Valley :: socks on shoes, a new fashionDescending the Kaznok Valley :: socks on shoes, a new fashionDescending the Kaznok Valley :: socks on shoes, a new fashionDescending the Kaznok Valley :: Adamtash slopesDescending the Kaznok Valley :: Chapdara vel Alaudin Lakes in sight againDescending the Kaznok Valley :: an interesting lake in sightDescending the Kaznok Valley :: on the main valley stepDescending the Kaznok Valley :: below the main valley step :: Fangitor sticking outDescending the Kaznok Valley :: the perfect Piala LakeDescending the Kaznok Valley :: the perfect Piala LakeDescending the Kaznok Valley :: first bushesBivouac Seven :: we named it the Glony Lake :: pitching the tentBivouac Seven :: the view behind the backBivouac Seven :: the viewBivouac Seven :: outletBivouac Seven :: we named it the Glony LakeBivouac Seven :: a tasty water source includedBivouac Seven :: the view from the sourceBivouac Seven :: evening moodsChapdara Lake :: arriving againChapdara Lake :: surroundingChapdara Lake :: the usual formation of Tajik goatsThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: turquoiseThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: turquoiseThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: turquoiseChapdara Lake :: looking up the Alaudin PassThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac EightThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: profanation of the turquoise, but where to wash?The smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: a bay nearbyThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac EightThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: transparentThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: transparentThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: clouds gatherThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: cookingThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: afternoon, the Chapdara Peak aboveThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: after dinnerThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: eveningThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: campfireThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: campfireThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: packing upThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: fixing the bootsThe smaller Alaudin Lake :: Bivouac Eight :: fixing the bootsThe Chapdara Lake outlet :: a bridge!The Chapdara River valley :: grass, I mean, grass!The Chapdara River valley :: below the forest lineThe Chapdara River valley :: a local summer village opposite the Vertikal Alaudin campThe Chapdara River valley :: overgrown bouldersThe Chapdara River valley :: Vertikal Alaudin campThe Chapdara River valley :: Vertikal Alaudin camp :: the valley we came from

The old style gallery is available on the page pastvoyages.jankowski.org.