A trek from Tusheti to Khevruseti — or from Omalo to Shatili crossing the Atsunta range — in the Georgian Caucasus. Following the standard route, six bivouacs. July 2017.

Tusheti is one of three Georgian historical provinces situated north of the Caucasus main range (the other two being Khevruseti and Khevi). As we have crossed the high Abano pass between Kacheti and Tusheti (or formally between A.sia and Europe) in heavy rain on 7th July, it was difficult to drive on a road already affected before by landslides and risen water levels in fords, but nothing really to stop our driver and his Mitsubishi Delica. However, the rain was catastrophic elsewhere with rivers changing their bed in valleys washing out the roads and causing ugly landslides. The featured image shows the old defense towers of Omalo in Tusheti seen from northwest and the main Caucasus ridge behind just after our arrival.

Consequently, after a few days of happily undisturbed trekking by foot from Omalo in Tusheti over the Atsunta pass to Shatili in Chevruseti we were confronted with long stretches of destroyed and still not repaired dirt road south of Shatili, with the village itself cut-out from food provisions and electricity for well over a week already. We had to change our further trekking plans beyond Shatili to an evacuation from there with a perspective of breaking through along the impassable road stretch to the present road head in Kistani, one day of a very rough walking.

But a totally unexpected rescue occured. We had an incredible luck to be flown out almost instantly upon arrival in Shatili back to the lowlands, made possible by generous Georgian border guards offering us place in their sturdy Mi-8 helicopter. The sheer contrast between magnificent Caucasian valleys and busy Tbilisi streets could not be greater.

For the overall description of the trek crossing the Atsunta range refer e.g. to the site causasus-trekking.com. We have originally planned a different, longer and wilder route via Borbalo pass in a slightly larger party but changed plans shortly before the flight to Georgia when it occurred there’s only two of us eventually going there. We have also planned to go a few days longer beyond Shatili, over Chaukhi pass towards Kazbegi, but forced by circumstances finished the trek just in Shatili.

• Gallery (191 images) Road to Omalo :: above the tree lineRoad to Omalo :: a snow bridgeRoad to Omalo :: ascending the Abano passRoad to Omalo :: ascended almost above the cloudsRoad to Omalo :: the Abano pass in the main Caucasus ridgeRoad to Omalo :: raining heavily north of the ridgeRoad to Omalo :: one of these stream crossingsRoad to Omalo :: one of these stream crossingsRoad to Omalo :: a flooded part after a fresh landslideRoad to Omalo :: just below OmaloIn Omalo :: passing the old defense towersBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: arrivedBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: the view of Omalo towersBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: the main Caucasus ridgeBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: the main Caucasus ridgeBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: the guest houseBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: raining stopsBy Omalo :: Mirgvela :: leaving the guest house in the morningBy Ghele :: on the dirt road to DartloBelow Ghele :: looking down the Pirikita Alazani (River) valleyOn the way to Dartlo :: the village appearsDartloDartlo :: approachingDartloDartloDartlo :: twin towers ruins in the eastern side of the villageDartlo :: looking down to the ruined churchDartloDartlo :: the ruined churchDartlo :: leaving the villageBy Dartlo :: a memorial site by the riverBivouac one :: between Dartlo and CheshoBivouac one :: looking downstream of the Pirikita AlazaniBivouac one :: visitorsTowards Chesho :: sheep pasturesChesho :: approachingUpstream of Chesho :: towers on the ridge :: Makratela slopes behindBy Pharsma :: one of these ad hoc shopsPharsmaBivouac two :: by PharsmaBivouac two :: by Pharsma :: soaking dried vegetablesPharsmaPharsmaBivouac two :: by Pharsma :: sunset cloudsBivouac two :: by Pharsma :: tent lifeBy Girevi :: the road turns to a path, at lastAbove Girevi :: the border guard barracksAbove Girevi :: the view up the Larovnistskali River valleyAbove Girevi :: the view up the Larovnistskali River valleyAbove Girevi :: Hegho towers above the Larovnistskali and Kvakhidisitskali Rivers junctionAbove Ghirevi :: Turning up the Kvakhidisitskali River valleyBy Chontio :: towers down by the riverBy Chontio :: traversing towards the ruinsBy Chontio :: traversing towards the ruinsChontio ruinsChontio ruinsChontio ruins :: beware of snakesChontio ruins :: looking upstreamChontio ruins :: looking downstreamTowards Tursiekhi :: birch forests on the other sideTowards Tursiekhi :: steep flowery slopesTowards TursiekhiTowards TursiekhiTowards Tursiekhi :: a tributary crossingTursiekhi :: a shepherds hutTursiekhi :: horses pastureLeaving TursiekhiLeaving Tursiekhi :: downslope clouds from ChechnyaThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: a broken snow bridgeThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: an intact snow bridge blocking the passageThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: climbing above the bridgeThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: turning back for the second rucksackThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: the ugly obstacleThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: looking back to the Tursiekhi meadowThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: below a waterfall :: Amugo and Pirkhita peaks behindThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: below a waterfallBivouac three :: the Kvakhidisitskali River gorgeBivouac three :: the Kvakhidisitskali River gorgeThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: Amugo and Pirkhiti peaks in the Atsunta rangeBivouac three :: the Kvakhidisitskali River gorgeBivouac three :: the Kvakhidisitskali River gorgeThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: looking back to the bivouac three siteThe Kvakhidisitskali River gorge :: traversing upstreamReaching Kvakhidisitskali meadows (behind a bridge) after a border guards checkKvakhidisitskali meadows :: the mess on the camp siteKvakhidisitskali meadows :: the second bridge belowBack on the northern shore of the Kvakhidisitskali River :: note the house aboveLooking towards the Atsunta pass and Pirchita peakThe uppermost Kvakhidisitskali RiverA shepherd shack by the Kvakhidisitskali RiverReaching the ford place called Exit Shatili :: the Atsunta pass behindExit Shatili :: fording a swallowed stream flowing from southern glaciers of the Tebulosmta peakBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass, ca. 2680m :: Makhkosmta ridge behindBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: by the stream from the Darasti valleyBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: sheep balletBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: looking down the Kvakhidisitskali valleyBivouac four :: below Atsunta passBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: looking up the valley towards Prichita and Amugo peaksBivouac four :: below Atsunta passBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: waiting for the sunBivouac four :: below Atsunta pass :: looking up the valley towards Prichita and Amugo peaksAscending Atsunta :: starting along a stream from the Darasti valleyAscending Atsunta :: the valley towards Prichita and Amugo peaksAscending Atsunta :: the first height gainedAscending Atsunta :: above the last (bull) pasture on a ridgeAscending Atsunta :: above the last (bull) pasture :: zoomedAscending Atsunta :: a flowery slopesAscending Atsunta :: crossing a snow fieldAscending Atsunta :: looks like Amugo peakAscending Atsunta :: the proper Atsunta pass (3431)Ascending Atsunta :: the peak of AmugoAscending Atsunta :: the last slopes before the higher Atsunta passAscending Atsunta :: MakhkosmtaAscending Atsunta :: Amugo peakAscending Atsunta :: never ending scree slopesAscending Atsunta :: the last meterAscending Atsunta :: a snow field just below the passAtsunta :: the next party approaches :: the Kvakhidisitskali River well belowAtsunta :: Amugo peak, the Kvakhidisitskali River valleyAtsunta :: the Kvakhidisitskali River valleyAtsunta :: Amugo peak, Prichita in cloudsAtsunta :: the Khevruseti side with the green Khidotani ridge and Kharokhkistskali valleyAtsunta :: the Khevruseti side with the green Khidotani ridge and Kharokhkistskali valleyAtsunta :: the Khevruseti side with the green Khidotani ridge and Kharokhkistskali valleyDescending Atsunta :: entering the scree slopes on the Khevruseti sideDescending Atsunta :: Makhkosmta peak just to the southDescending Atsunta :: serpentines on a ridgeDescending Atsunta :: screeDescending Atsunta :: the steep couloir just west of the passDescending Atsunta :: the western side of the (lower, proper) Atsunta passDescending Atsunta :: down to the plateau of the uppermost Kharokhkistskali valleyBelow Atsunta :: the plateau of the uppermost Kharokhkistskali valleyBivouac five :: west and below the Atsunta passBivouac five :: west and below the Atsunta pass :: clouds came from belowTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: leaving the bivouacTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: the Kharokhkistskali valleyTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: rhododendron flowersTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: rhododendronsTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: rhododendron fieldsTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: resting on the slope :: the cloud level rises slowlyTraversing the Khidotani ridge :: rhododendronsOn the Khidotani ridge :: reached the flat partOn the Khidotani ridge :: red marking on the ridgeOn the Khidotani ridge :: looking towards Borbalo behind the Andaki valleyOn the Khidotani ridge :: East Carpathian moodsOn the Khidotani ridge :: the Bakhao settlement in the Andaki valley well belowOn the Khidotani ridge :: approaching the border guards postOn the Khidotani ridge :: the Kkhonistskali valley sideDescending the Khidotani ridge :: the Kkhonistskali river clearly seen, Tebulosmta in cloudDescending the Khidotani ridge :: steep serpentines down to the Kkhonistskali riverDescending the Khidotani ridge :: a nice meadow on the opposite slopeDescending the Khidotani ridge :: a nice meadow on the opposite slopeThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: by MariamtsmindaThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: the river has taken the roadThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: the river has taken the roadThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: the river has taken the roadThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: the road (marked) appears from the riverThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: a bridge near KhonischalaThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: Khonischalahe Kkhonistskali river valley :: a landslide by KhonischalaThe Kkhonistskali river valley :: a bridge below Khonischala on the road to MutsoThe Andaki river valley :: an intact road stretchThe Andaki river valley :: the castle of MutsoBivouac six :: by MutsoBivouac six :: by Mutso :: evening moodsBivouac six :: by Mutso :: cooking by neighboursThe Andaki river valley :: leaving Mutso for ShatiliThe Andaki river valley :: a source below a treeThe Andaki river valley :: one of these bridgesThe Andaki river valley :: one of these bridgesThe Andaki river valley :: a building with a leather covered doorThe Andaki river valley :: flood tracesThe Andaki river valley :: ants on a hogweed flowerThe Andaki river valley :: just another rock slideThe Andaki river valley :: an abstract result of the river bed changes -- note the markingAnatori pest grave :: cobwebsAnatori pest graveThe Arghun River valley :: rock formationsThe Arghun River valley :: rock formationsThe Arghun River valley :: eroded roadThe Arghun River valley :: just another stone avalancheThe Arghun River valley :: Shatili in sightThe Arghun River valley :: reaching ShatiliShatili :: an intact brige and destroyed roadShatili :: housesShatili :: waiting for an airlift out of the village (the road to Shatili destroyed on a longer stretch by floods)Shatili :: Mi-8 of the border guardsMi-8 flight :: standing places availableMi-8 flight :: alighted on a sport field in DushetiTbilisi :: the Bethlemi quarter of high quality pictures taken along our route.
• Gallery Tusheti to Khevruseti, July2017 on pastvoyages.jankowski.org.
• Online topographic map centered on Tusheti.