Just three backpacks. An extraordinarily rewarding, long and hard trek around the Manaslu Himal with crossing of Larkya La as the key of the route. Simply beautiful, the very essence of a Himalayan trek in Nepal. The contrast of joining for the last walking days the overcrowded trail around Annapurnas could not be larger… However, two soothing days in beautiful Bandipur brought us back to the balance. October/November 2009.

The route was (night stays only, main [highs/lows]): Jeep from Kathmandu — Arughat 608 — Soti Khola ~700 — by Khanibesi ~850 — Tatopani 990 — Jagat 1340 — Ekle Bhatti ~1600 — Bihi Phedi 1990 — Ghap ~2250 — Lihi 2920 — Lho 3180 — Samagaon 3520 [side trip Pungyen Gompa ~4100] — Samdo 3875 [side trip Samdo Ri 5177] — Larkya Phedi 4460 — [Larkya La 5160] — Pheriche/Tauboche ~4450 — Bhimtang 3590 — Gho(wa) 2560 — Karte 1850 — Chamje 1430 — Bahundanda 1310 — Bhulbhule 840 — bus to Dumre, jeep to Bahandipur, then buses to Kathmandu.

• Gallery Around Manaslu, there is also a direct link to the slideshow: Gallery (383 images) The road to Arughat :: one of these sturdy Tata busses on the dirt roadRoad to Arughat :: looking back to the Ankhu Khola valleyArughat :: the bridge over Budhi GandakiArughat :: a bazaar sceneBy Mangaltar :: a typical Nepali hills landscape...By Mangaltar :: entering the long Budhi Gandaki valleyBelow Keurenipani :: Shree Sirdibas Hotal :: a bhatti with ambitionsSoti Khola :: a typical Nepali hills landscape...Soti Khola :: fields on the other side of the Budhi GandakiSoti Khola :: harvestingSoti Khola :: the view towards ArmalaSoti Khola :: the satellite phone available for the publicTowards Lapu Besi :: carrying hayTowards Lapu Besi :: one of the waterfallsTowards Lapu Besi :: the trail along the noisy riverTowards Lapubesi :: one of these ridge climbs in the narrow river valleyTowards Lapubesi :: resting by a bhattiTowards Lapu Besi :: the village in sightLapu Besi :: setting the lunch menu in a lodgeNauli Khola :: a welcoming lodgeNauli Khola :: the bridge and the fresh, active landslide on the left bankNorth of Nauli Khola :: the Buddhi Gandaki valley broadensBy Khanibesi :: beach campingBy Khanibesi :: beach campingBy Khanibesi :: beach campingBy Machha Khola :: looking northKhorlabesiBy LisyapuTatopani :: Gods guarding the hot sourcesTatopani :: the main streetTatopani :: the wash day by a toilet adorned with Maoist slogansTatopani :: sleeping upstairsSouth of Dobhan :: crossing Buddhi Gandaki over one of these new bridgesSouth of Dobhan :: loading the batteries everywhere!South of Dobhan :: the trailA bhatti before Dobhan :: sorry, girls, it is not always the teatimeDobhan :: the lodgeDobhan :: The Dobhan Khola bridgeNorth of Dobhan :: crossing one of these landslidesBy IndurReaching the Budhi Gandaki and the Yaru Khola confluenceYaru Khola :: resting under The Red FlagYaru Khola :: political agitationsYaru Khola :: the flame of the revolution :: producing rakshiThe Yaru Khola outflow :: crossing below the proper bridgeBy Lhakpa :: back to the right bankBy Lhakpa :: Jagat in sightJagat :: roofs and backyardsJagat :: MCAP checkpost :: checkpointedJagat :: all lodge suite comfortsNorth of Jagat :: on a high trailSalleri :: chortenSalleri :: chautaraaBy Paimo :: Sringi Himal viewsGhatta Khola :: midday washGhatta Khola :: crossingTowards Sirdibas and Philim, the latter on the other sideBy Nagjur :: the police is watching youPhilim :: the entrance Red Prayer Flags chortenPhilim :: restingOn the trail to Ekle Bhatti :: looking southOn the trail to Ekle Bhatti :: a sleeping villagerEkle Bhatti :: a bhatti dining roomEkle Bhatti :: and the toiletEkle Bhatti :: children, balloonedEkle Bhatti :: ke garne?Ekle Bhatti :: updating the diaryEkle Bhatti :: the smokes and clouds above BangsingThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Awa :: enteringThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Awa :: a pine forestThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Awa :: a pine forestThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Awa :: the blue metal bridge :: getting rid of the useless watchThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by NyakThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Nyak :: the first bridge :: oh, just cross and forget itThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Nyak :: the first bridge :: oh, just cross and forget itThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Nyak :: the first bridge :: shakyThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Pewa :: porters cookingThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Pewa :: the second bridge :: oh, this one as well...The Budhi Gandaki gorge by Pewa :: the trailThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Pewa :: the view north :: the Tibetan border mountainsThe Budhi Gandaki gorge by Pewa :: the view east :: the Ganesh HimalDeng :: the entrance chortenDeng :: the noodle soup is readyDeng :: Namaste!Ranagaon :: the third bridge and the trail from DengRanagaon :: just climbed to the village, Deng fields behindBihi Phedi :: traversing to the bhatti in sight, the village of Sip on the other sideBihi Phedi :: camped by a steep slopeBihi Phedi :: repair in despair :: the stove cloggedWest of Bihi :: The Budhi Gandaki valley leads now westwardsWest of Bihi :: looking north, up the Serang Khola gorgeWest of Bihi :: Dwijen Himal, mountains on the Tibetan borderWest of Bihi :: mani walls are already everywhereBur :: fieldsBur :: a mani wall decorations...Bur :: children, baloonedApproaching GhapApproaching GhapGhap :: the exit chorten to the westGhap :: the exit chorten to the west :: paintingsGhap :: looking eastGhap :: fine carvings on a mani wall :: TarasGhapsya :: fine carvings on a mani wall :: TaraGhapsya :: fine carvings on a mani wall :: BuddhasGhapsya :: fine carvings on a mani wall :: the holy texts...Ghapsya :: mountains north of Gap - Tanji HimalGhapsya :: scripture...Ghapsya :: and the vein...Ghapsya :: looking east :: the Sringi HimalGhapsya :: ridersGhapsya :: Hotel Kyimolung :: get involed: www.projectlama.orgGhapsya :: Hotel Kyimolung :: householdGhapsya :: Hotel Kyimolung :: sleeping in the prayer roomGhapsya :: Hotel Kyimolung :: cooking happilyOpposite the Tom Khola valley :: its upper part in TibetOpposite the Tom Khola valley :: mani wallsBy Thorje :: the bridge almost without railings to the left Buddhi Gandaki bankBy Thorje :: the famous natural arch bridgeThe Budhi Gandaki valley east of Namrung :: back to the right bankNamrung :: arrived for a lunchNamrung :: seated comfortablyNamrung :: the rich lodge shopBharjang :: mani wallsBharjang :: fields with guarding platformsBharjang to Lihi :: girlsBharjang to Lihi :: one of the girlsBharjang to Lihi :: a forest stretchLihi :: entering the villageLihi :: the village gompaLihi :: housesLihi :: housesLihi :: housesLihi :: in the villageLihi :: in the villageLihi :: in the villageLihi :: at a chautraraaLihi :: autumnLihi :: autumnLihi :: our lodge, we slept in the shop building to the rightLihi :: begging childrenLihi :: laughing with the lodge ownerLihi :: our hostess kitchenLihi :: the shop we have slept inLihi :: if they do care to smuggle, we do care to drinkLihi :: clouds gather in the Hinang valleyKutang Himal in the morningSyogaon :: looking back towards LihiSyogaon :: the entrance chortenSyogaon :: the entrance chorten :: Kutang HimalSyogaon :: the entrance chorten :: Kutang Himal, autumn coloursSyogaon :: harvestApproaching Lho :: the famous first Manaslu top viewLho :: approachingLho :: the lower (village) GompaLho :: fieldsLho :: the omni-present Manaslu over the village roofs :: Gompa to the rightLho :: exit chortens and mani wallsLho :: exit chortens and mani wallsLho :: Manaslu zoomed...Lho :: upper reach of the fieldsLho :: fields at the forest boundaryLho Gompa :: training ritual dancesLho Gompa :: dancing with the lionLho Gompa :: the public, watchingLho Gompa :: the public, leavingSyala :: the peaks parade over the messy village :: Simnang Himal, Nadi Chuli, ManasluSyala :: Taningga DandaSyala :: Simnang HimalSyala :: the exit chortenSyala :: the exit chortenThe Numla Khola valley :: ManasluThe Numla Khola valley :: Samagaon surroundingsThe Numla Khola valley :: Kutang Himal :: Samdo, KhayangThe Numla Khola valley :: Taningga Danda, Simnang HimalWest of the Numla Khola :: Taningga DandaWest of the Numla Khola :: towards Samagaon pasturesBy Samagaon pasturesBy Samagaon pastures :: happy life?By Samagaon pastures :: yaks or dzos?Approaching Samagaon from the east, Naike Peak, Yamnang GlacierApproaching Samagaon from the east, Naike Peak, Yamnang GlacierSamagaon :: upper Gompa, Yamnang GlacierSamagaon :: upper GompaSamagaon :: housesSamagaon :: the streamSamagaon :: the villageSamagaon :: the villageSamagaon :: examining foreign languagesSamagaon :: let them flySamagaon :: the eye-catching Manaslu, what else...Samagaon :: Kutang HimalThe Numla Khola valley :: upstreamThe Numla Khola valley :: a mani wallTowards Pungyen :: looking back towards Kutang HimalTowards Pungyen :: Nadi Chuli (Peak 29), ManasluTowards Pungyen :: Nadi ChuliTowards Pungyen :: Manaslu topPungyen :: Simnang HimalPungyen :: reached the Gompa chortenPungyen :: GompaPungyen :: the lower gompa buildingsPungyen :: one of the gompa buildings - what a surroundingPungyen :: the view from the cave gompaPungyen :: statuesPungyen :: going back through the kharka meadowsPungyen :: lakesPungyen :: the glacier morrainesPungyen :: the glacier bodyPungyen :: the green glacier morraine lakePungyen :: the green glacier morraine lake surroundingsThe Numla Khola valley :: downstreamApproaching Samagaon :: Naike Peak in the autumn surroundingsSamagaon :: the village in autumn moodsSamagaon :: Manaslu, again and again...Towards Samdo :: the edge of the Manaslu Glacier frontal morraineTowards Samdo :: Manaslu top and the Manaslu Glacier fallTowards Samdo :: The Manaslu Glacier fall zoomedTowards Samdo :: Manaslu top zoomed :: the classical routeOn the trail to Samdo :: looking southOn the trail to Samdo :: the upper Budhi GandakiOn the trail to Samdo :: Panpoche HimalOn the trail to Samdo :: the upper Budhi GandakiOn the trail to Samdo :: Buddhas on a mani wallBy Samdo :: the village entrance chorten in sight, Samdo Ri aboveBy Samdo :: crossing Budhi Gandaki just below the villageSamdo :: looking towards Larkya Bazaar ruinsSamdo :: the lower village part with lodgesSamdo :: the view south towards Baudha and Himalchuli over the Simnang HimalSamdo :: in the Tibetan Twins lodge kitchenSamdo :: in the Tibetan Twins lodge kitchenSamdo :: the eveningSamdo :: in the upper villageSamdo :: in the upper villageEast of Samdo :: the whole villageEast of Samdo :: the trail to Tibet :: a witness - the Lhasa Beer canEast of Samdo :: the Naike and Larkya Peaks appearEast of Samdo :: Manaslu over the Naike Peak side ridgesEast of Samdo :: ByalikharkaSamdo Ri approach :: the mild eastern slopesSamdo Ri approach :: climbing slowly...Samdo Ri approach :: the characteristic Samdo Peak behindSamdo Ri approach :: the view towards Manaslu (behind) and Naike Peak (in front)Samdo Ri :: the last heavy steps to the top of the hillSamdo Ri :: the view SE, Samdo Peak, the valley with Samagaon, the Himalchuli behind the Simnang HimalSamdo Ri :: the view SW, Manaslu over the Naike Peak, Larkya HimalSamdo Ri :: the view W, Larkya La approach, valleys of Syacha and Larkya GlaciersSamdo Ri :: the view NW, Cho with Himlung Himal behing, Gyala, Fukang GlacierSamdo Ri :: the view N, Swelokhan and Lajyung Himal - the Tibetan borderSamdo Ri :: the view E, Tasa Peak, Lajyung La and Hayang La surroundingsSamdo Ri :: the trail to Larkya La zoomed, Kang Guru Himal behindSamdo Ri :: Manaslu zoomedSamdo Ri descent :: going down, downSamdo Ri descent :: the old trade route via Lajyung La and Hayang La leading to TibetLarkya Phedi approach :: one of the first steel poles marking the route :: Larkya Peak behindLarkya Phedi approach :: eroded slopesLarkya Phedi approach :: an avalanche on the Samdo Peak slopesLarkya Phedi approach :: Syacha Glacier, Naike Peak ridges above, Manaslu NorthLarkya Phedi approach :: Samdo PeakLarkya Phedi approach :: Syacha Glacier, Manaslu NorthLarkya Phedi approach :: the campsite in sight, just below the glacier front morraineLarkya Phedi approach :: the campsite in sight, zoomedLarkya Phedi :: the campsite surroundings :: Naike Peak ridges over the Syacha Glacier morrainesLarkya Phedi :: the campsiteLarkya Phedi :: the industrial trekking pollutionLarkya Phedi :: the campsite in the sun, Samdo Peak, Naike ridgesLarkya Phedi :: cookingLarkya Phedi :: the campsite in the shadowLarkya Phedi :: Naike, still in the sunLarkya Phedi :: the slowly freezing campLarkya La approach :: the first green lakeLarkya La approach :: Peak 6146 to the southLarkya La approach :: leaving the lake towards the glacierLarkya La approach :: a (new?) shelter by 4900mLarkya La approach :: following the northern Larkya glacier morrainesLarkya La approach :: what do -you- want here?Larkya La approach :: following the northern Larkya glacier morrainesLarkya La approach :: where is the pass?Larkya La approach :: on the side morraine, Larkya Peak slopesLarkya La :: lung-ta, the prayer flags on the highest placeLarkya La :: the destroyed shelterLarkya La :: looking to the glaciated pass belowLarkya La :: adding our flags...Larkya La :: adding our flags...Larkya La :: lung-taLarkya La :: the obligatory top photoLarkya La :: looking east :: the frozen lakes in the retreat area, morraines, Larkya Glacier, Samdo Peak...Larkya La :: the lakes in the glacier retreat areaLarkya La :: the Larkya GlacierLarkya La :: Larkya Peak slopesLarkya La :: looking west :: Kang Guru Himal, Tilje, Gyaji Kang, NemjungDescend from Larkya La :: descending along a morraine, an iron pole with katasDescend from Larkya La :: the slippery descent traversing steep snowed scree slopesDescend from Larkya La :: Larkya Peak slopesDescend from Larkya La :: Kang Guru Himal, Tilje, Gyaji Kang, Nemjung, Himlung HimalDescend from Larkya La :: three glaciers junction to form Bimtang Glacier - Kechhakyu, Ponkar and SapudadaDescend from Larkya La :: Kang Guru Himal behind the Tibikle Panlemu ridges :: the green is Ponkar TalDescend from Larkya La :: Cheo Himal over the upper Salpudada GlacierPheriche :: the campPheriche :: the western Larkya La approachPheriche :: freezing :: it is time for sleepPheriche :: visitors in the campThonbuche Kharka :: descending towards Bimtang meadows, reached the tree lineThonbuche Kharka :: Manaslu, Phungge Himal (above) and Bimtang (below) in sightThonbuche Kharka :: Manaslu with the usual cloud, zoomedThonbuche Kharka :: Phungge Himal, zoomedThonbuche Kharka :: Bimtang meadowsBimtang :: so many tents...Bimtang Glacier morraine :: industrial trekking tents and makeshift lodgesBimtang Glacier :: just another green lakeBimtang Glacier :: Manaslu, Phungge HimalBimtang :: sun sets behind the ridges, shadows reach the seasonal villageBimtang :: in a lodge kitchenBimtang :: the last sun rays on ManasluBimtang :: ready to leave the village - but where is the sun?Bimtang Glacier :: the lake below Bimtang, Tilje Peak and Nemjung behindBimtang Glacier :: the view south towards Phungge HimalBimtang Glacier :: climbing the right morraineBimtang Glacier :: at the high side morraine :: the real woods begin hereBimtang Glacier :: the Dudh Khola outflow with the (damaged) bridgeBimtang Glacier :: at the high side morraine :: Manaslu, Phungge HimalBimtang Glacier :: at the high side morraine :: the Manaslu western slopes viewThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: entering the woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: in the woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: in the woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: western slopes of the Manaslu Himal :: part oneThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: western slopes of the Manaslu Himal :: part twoThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: in the woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: in the woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: Phungge Himal zoomedThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: promised - the last view of ManasluThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: down by the river :: eroded banksThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: dense woodsThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: following the riverThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: following the riverThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: the boulders in the river valleyThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: looking up to the white peaksThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: along an eroded stretchThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: leaving a nasty stretch behindThe upper Dudh Khola Valley :: looking up to a burned forestGho :: the new lodge luxuriesGho :: Lamjung Himal in the Annapurnas in sightTowards Tilje, Lamjung Himal in the Annapurnas aboveDudh Khola, the Milk RiverTilje :: the washing dayTilje :: the washing day :: we tooTilje :: the bridge decorated for a festivalThonje and Dhorapani in sight :: joining the crowded Annapurna Circuit soonDhorapani (Thonje part) :: The Manaslu Circuit ends :: go back?Towards KharteSouth of Kharte :: industrial landscapes on the new road to ManangNorth of Tal :: a mule caravane to ManangTal :: securing the lodge investments against the Marsyangdi forcesTal :: the consumers of the trekking industryTal :: one of the porters for consumer goods going up the MarsyagdiTal :: why are they closed? :: too strong the competition?Tal :: the Annapaurna Circuit circus in the pure formSouth Tal :: the MarsyangdiSouth of Tal :: the Marsyangdi enters her fallsSouth of Tal Phedi :: the Marsyangdi falls, similar to the Buddhi Gandaki below the Yaru Khola confluenceMyardi Khola outflow to the Marsyangdi (opposite) :: the high trailMyardi Khola outflow to the Marsyangdi :: the front of the new road worksReached Chamje :: why not to stay here?South of Chamje :: a well described waterfall oppositeFrom Jagat to Syange :: The famous Annapurna Circuit reduced... to a dirt roadFrom Jagat to Syange :: trying to break through a man-made landslide with the new roadFrom Jagat to Syange :: a makeshift bamboo bridge over the Marsyangdi :: circumventing the landslideSyange :: the proud new roadhead, presently not reachable due to a landslide belowSyange :: in the range of the mobile phone antennasBy Ghermu :: rice fields terracesGhermu :: The characteristic Bahundanda Hill in sightSouthbound to Bahundanda :: a trail stretch with railingsSouthbound to Bahundanda :: a trail stretch with railingsBy Bahundanda :: just another landslide caused by the new road works oppositeBy Bahundanda :: ricefieldsClimbing the Bahundanda Hill :: the view northBahundanda :: the old friend - the bodhi tree in the middle of the villageBahundanda :: looking south from the hill towards NgadiBy Lampata :: rice fieldsSouth of Ngadi :: the last Himalchuli viewBhulbule :: the Marsyangdi bridge, the last oneThe road to Besisahar :: Ganesh and Buddha :: please help us...Bandipur :: looking back over the Marsyangdi Valley towards the far Manaslu Himal
• Gallery Around Manaslu on pastvoyages.jankowski.org, old-style smaller pictures.
• Detailed remarks from the trail — the very own experience (a text from 2009),
• Old version of remarks from zanskar.org.
• The Manaslu Circuit resources from zanskar.org.