The Albanian Alps at their finest, in the middle of the summer. Getting there via the Koman Lake. After a loop around the Kolata range, a trek from Valbona Valley over the Jezerce Lakes to Theti in Kelmend. August 2013.
Fetched by Mario Molla in person from the Tirana airport at midnight and delivered to his own morning ferry boat at the Koman Lake and taken over by a micro-bus via Bajram Curri to Valbone’s finest guesthouse Rilindja of Catherine was so surprisingly smooth and efficient that we have almost lost the feeling of time and space. Overwhelmed by the summer heat we have first decided to make a deposit of all heavy equipment in the guesthouse and take a reconnaissance short loop around the Kolata massif just ro the North. The trip confronted us with all the specific features of Bjeshkët e Nemuna vel Prokletije Mountains: never loose the trail, always have enough water with you, and never downplay the difficulties of the mountainous terrain. The eventual trip that followed — from Valbona to Qafa e Valbonës and then via Montenegrin territory to the Jezerce Lakes with an unfulfilled attempt of reaching the top of Jezerce and then trekking all the way to Theti in Kelmend — only confirmed this. Take these beautiful and still unspoiled mountains serious. But never loose your temper — they are worth each and every effort.
- Gallery Albanian Alps on pastvoyages.jankowski.org
- Gallery (301 images)
Koman Lake :: waking up in the guest house by the lake
Koman Lake :: on board
Koman Lake :: a canyon-like part
Koman Lake :: a canyon-like part
Koman Lake :: approaching stranded ferries in Fierzë
Quku e Valbonës :: on Rilindja terrace :: the first Tirana beer
Quku e Valbonës :: the Kollata range slopes above Rilindja
Quku e Valbonës :: the Kollata range slopes above Rilindja
Quku e Valbonës :: an old mill in the forest by Rilindja
Quku e Valbonës :: the houses, old and new
Quku e Valbonës :: Mali e Valit and Jezerca in sight
Lower parts of Rruga e Puntorve :: Maja Thate, Lug Prosllopit
Lower parts of Rruga e Puntorve :: Maja Lugu i Ujit steep, steep slopes
Lower parts of Rruga e Puntorve :: zooming our future descend route from Qafa e Preslopit
Lower parts of Rruga e Puntorve :: looking towards Jezerca surroundings
Valbona :: Tradita restaurant, the Balkan food as it is
Valbona :: Maja Lugu i Ujit
Valbona :: the river and Maja e Gjarpërit range behind
Valbona :: a freshly damaged new bridge
Valbona :: an often photographed motive...
The trail to Çeremi :: one of these traditional houses below Kollata
The trail to Çeremi :: in the river canyon :: looking back south towards Maja e Pecmarrës
The trail to Çeremi :: in the river canyon :: tackling one of the landslides
The trail to Çeremi :: in the river canyon :: a surprisingly flat meadow
The trail to Çeremi :: in the river canyon :: just another landslide
The trail to Çeremi :: in the river canyon :: in the bush
Çeremi village :: a ramshackle roadside tavern
Çeremi village :: another tavern?
Çeremi village :: yes, this is a public toilet
The Çeremi Valley :: looking back to the village :: Maja e Gjarpërit range behind
The Çeremi Valley :: above the village :: looking towards Maja e Kollatës range
The Çeremi Valley :: crossing a beautiful pasture
The Çeremi Valley :: entering the forest in a wrong place
The Çeremi Valley :: are we lost?...
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: it is better to put up our tents...
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: what shall we cook today?
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: Maja e Gjarpërit range
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: Maja e Kollatës range
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: in the evening
The Çeremi Valley :: bivouac one :: in the evening
Going to Qafa e Borit :: the shepherd huts of Stanet e Dërzhanes
Going to Qafa e Borit :: entering the truly karst landscape
Qafa e Borit reached :: the wide pastures on the other side of the pass
Qafa e Borit reached :: resting in the scarce shadow
Below Qafa e Borit :: the pastures below the source :: our route leads somewhere up to the left
The Skripa Valley :: starting the climb towards Qafa e Preslopit
The Skripa Valley :: approaching the next step of the valley
The Skripa Valley :: the Good Kollata (Dobra Kolata, Kollata e Mirë) appears to the left
The Skripa Valley :: typical karst landscape by the Ledena Pečina (Ice Cave)
The Skripa Valley :: now also the Bad Kollata (Zla Kolata, Kollata e Keqe) in sight
The Skripa Valley :: traversing the valley depression towards Qafa e Preslopit
The Skripa Valley :: the pass Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës), the Bad Kollata and Qafa e Preslopit below to the right
Qafa e Preslopit reached :: the valley opens towards Valbona :: Maja e Thate on the right
Qafa e Preslopit reached :: it is much too hot
Qafa e Preslopit :: going to the kettle below both Kollatas, slopes of the Good Kollata behind
Ascending Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: the Kollata pass now clearly in sight, high walls of the Bad Kollata
Ascending Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: approach on the rocky slopes of the Good Kollata
Ascending Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: nasty snowfields just below the pass
Ascending Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: looking down to the kettle between the Bad and the Good Kolata
Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: panorama :: the ridge of Maja e Kollatës proper (Ravna Kolata)
Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: panorama :: the high walls of the deep kettle below
Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: panorama :: the triple (double?) pass
Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: panorama :: the Bad Kollata (Kollata e Keqe, Zla Kolata)
Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës) :: panorama :: the Good Kollata (Kollata e Mirë, Dobra Kolata), to be climbed
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking east :: the northern walls of Maja e Kollatës proper (Ravna Kolata) well above the Çeremi valley
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking southeast :: the walls of the kettle below a ridge of Maja e Kollatës proper (Ravna Kolata)
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking south :: mountains south of Valbona, the Bad Kollata in front and Jezerca far behind to the right
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking southwest :: the Bad Kollata and Jezerca behind
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking west :: Jezerca, Maja e Rosit behind a dark ridge, Karanfil range behind to the right
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking northwest towards Gusinje vel Guci :: a lot of Montenegrin mountains
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking north towards Plav :: far into Montenegro
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: looking northeast towards Kosovo :: the Çeremi Valley just below
Kollata e Mirë :: top :: Gropa e Kollatës, Maja e Gjarpërit in the next plan, mountains by the Kosovo boundary
Kollata e Mirë :: descending :: following the ridge back to the Kollata pass
Kollata e Mirë :: descending :: the characteristical double (triple?) pass of Dvojni Prevoj (Qafa e Kollatës)
Kollata e Mirë :: descending :: the Bad Kollata (Zla Kolata, Kollata e Keqe) portrait
Below Qafa e Kollatës :: descending :: down towards Qafa e Preslopit
Below Qafa e Kollatës :: looking back towards the Kollata pass
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: putting up the tents
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: grasshoppers invasion
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: preparing tea
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: cooking
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: no milk today?
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: in the morning
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: packing the stuff
Qafa e Preslopit :: bivouac two :: packing the stuff
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: down the valley Lugu i Presllopit :: Maja e Thate to the right
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: approaching Stanet e Rrethit te Bardhe
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: Stanet e Rrethit te Bardhe
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: the valley below Stanet e Rrethit te Bardhe
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: just above the forest line
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: a pasture below Stanet e Rrethit te Bardhe
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: a pasture below Stanet e Rrethit te Bardhe :: looking back
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: descending the steep slopes above Valbona
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: descending the steep slopes above Valbona
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: descending the steep slopes above Valbona :: looking back up to Maja e Thate
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: Valbona :: reaching the bottom of the valley
Descending from Qafa e Preslopit :: Valbona :: a well earned, typically Balkan meal in Tradita Restaurant
Quku e Valbonës :: Rilindja again :: steep slopes of the just circumvented Kollata range behind
Quku e Valbonës :: a break for a day :: washing dishes for hours
Quku e Valbonës :: a break for a day :: hanging out on the Rilindja terrace
Quku e Valbonës :: Rilindja :: Catherine's office :: checking the weather forecast
Quku e Valbonës :: Rilindja :: Catherine's office :: signposts being made
Leaving Valbona :: leaving the village towards Kukaj
Leaving Valbona :: the upper part of the Valbona valley :: ranges of Maja e Brijasit and Maja e Zhapores
Above Kukaj :: exchanging the route details with people coming back from where we go next
Above Kukaj :: a gravel route again
Above Kukaj :: Maja e Jezercës in sight, far behind, Maja e Rragamit to the left
Above Kukaj :: the mountains between Maja e Jezercës and Qafa e Sheleqeve
Above Kukaj :: Jezerca zoomed
Below Stanet te Plan :: reaching the forest limit
Stanet te Plan :: ranges of Maja e Pecmarrës and of Maja e Brijasit, e Zhapores
Stanet te Plan :: Maja e Ragamit :: here the rain comes
Stanet te Plan :: the tin roof not quite ready, but good, good enough to hide under it
Stanet te Plan :: may I enter as well?
Stanet te Plan :: making coffee in the oldest fashion...
Stanet te Plan :: making cheese in the oldest fashion...
Stanet te Plan :: sending weary tourists down the valley, also the old way...
Stanet te Plan :: the next stormy clouds approaching
Stanet te Plan :: bivouac three :: yes, why not, deciding to go up today
Ascending Qafa e Valbonës :: leaving the damaged Stanet te Plan
Ascending Qafa e Valbonës :: going up
Ascending Qafa e Valbonës :: entering the kettle below Maja e Rosit
Ascending Qafa e Valbonës :: a signpost below the pass :: do you recognise the painter?
Qafa e Valbonës :: resting on the pass :: Maja e Rosit behind
Qafa e Valbonës :: a small canned luxury
Qafa e Valbonës :: philosophying
Qafa e Valbonës :: disputing below Maja e Rosit
Qafa e Valbonës :: looking northwest, the Bojes and Karanfil ranges
Qafa e Valbonës :: Maja e Bojes zoomed
Qafa e Valbonës :: looking back to Maja e Rosit in clouds
Qafa e Valbonës :: heading north
Below Qafa e Valbonës :: looking towards Qafa e Sheleqeves
The Korita Valley :: down the next valley step :: three ridges - Popljuga, Bojes, Karanfil
The Korita Valley :: again, gravel intrusions to be traversed
The Korita Valley :: the path slowly disappears
The Korita Valley :: Qafa e Valbonës, Maja e Allis, Qafa e Shelleqeve short-cutted
The Korita Valley :: Popljuga ridge, Maja e Bojes above
The Korita Valley :: bivouac four :: Maja e Allis, Qafa e Shelleqeve :: sunset, two tiny silhouettes collecting snow
The Korita Valley :: bivouac four :: melting snow for the dinner
The Korita Valley :: bivouac four :: the evening moods
The Korita Valley :: bivouac four :: early morning :: in the grass
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: towards Zastan Ropojanski, Karanfil behind
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: looking back towards the bivouac site
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: Popljuga ridge, Maja e Bojes dominates above
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: down to Zastan Ropojanski :: the Karanfil range behind
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: traversing
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: the prohibiting step of the upper Korita valley
The Korita Valley :: found the way down :: steep slopes, steep slopes, steep slopes
Climbing to Liqeni e Jezercës :: looking north from Kroni Sirme source
Climbing to Liqeni e Jezercës :: the last traverse to the valley with the lakes
Climbing to Liqeni e Jezercës :: looking back north towards the Ropojana valley
Liqeni e Jezercës :: entering the valley
Liqeni e Jezercës :: the northernmost lake
Liqeni e Jezercës :: the eastern lake :: the Popljuga ridge behind, so near to the Korita valley with our last night bivouac!
Liqeni e Jezercës :: two strange brownish holes, the Maja e Bojes range
Liqeni e Jezercës :: on a morraine :: the middle two twin lakes, the previous Buni i Jezercës site
Liqeni e Jezercës :: the eastern lake
Liqeni e Jezercës :: the small lake just below Maja e Bojes
Liqeni e Jezercës :: the small lake just below Maja e Bojes
Liqeni e Jezercës :: reaching the day's aim :: the southernmost and largest of the Jezerce Lakes
Liqeni e Jezercës :: Maja e Bojes range
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five
Liqeni e Jezercës :: flat rocks
Liqeni e Jezercës :: flat rocks
Liqeni e Jezercës :: limestone
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five :: cooking in a tandem
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five :: in the morning
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five :: the view from the source by the eastern shore of our lake
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five :: the camp in the full sun
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac five :: what a breakfast
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: reaching the next valley step
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the Maja e Bojes range from the valley step
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: looking back towards the lakes from the valley step
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the camp by the southern lake zoomed
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: Maja e Bojes with the low Qafa e Jezercës to its left - our future route out of the valley
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: entering snowfields :: the top of Maja e Jezercës appears still far behind
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the kettle below Jezerca :: Qafa Emal approach clearly seen
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: traversing the kettle :: Maja e Kolajet behind
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the strange rock window in the Maja e Kokerhanes ridge
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: Maja e Kolajet range west of Jezerca, The "Devil Horns" to the left
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the low pass of Qafa e Jezercës in the middle, Maja e Bojes to the right
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the trail to Qafa Emal, a few snowfields to cross
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: Qafa Emal reached
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: Qafa Emal :: looking east towards Valbona, Maja e Ragamit range to the right
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: Qafa Emal :: the Karanfil ridge zoomed above Qafa e Jezercës
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: the crux of the route, a couloir to the west crest of Jezerca :: blocked with steep snows!
Trying Maja e Jezercës :: here we stop the ascent :: summit replacement declared by ~2500m
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: the neighbour mount, Maja e Kokerhanes, behind it Maja e Rosit, e Desles(?)
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: the main Prokletije ridge south of Valbona :: Maja e Rosit, e Desles(?), e Kollatës
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: looking northwest :: Maja e Prozmit and the Karanfil range; Maja e Kolajet and e Bojes fade in front of them
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: looking northwest, zoomed :: Maja e Kolajet, Maja e Prozmit
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: all the way down to the Valbona Valley
Maja e Jezercës summit replacement :: looking back to the blocked passage to the west Jezerca ridge
Descending from Jezerca :: descending back to Qafa Emal :: rock
Descending from Jezerca :: descending back to Qafa Emal :: snow
Descending from Jezerca :: Bergschrund below the Jezerca northern wall
Descending from Jezerca :: back on the Qafa Emal :: Maja e Ragamit range, Maja e Pecmarrës above Valbona behind
Descending from Jezerca :: back on the Qafa Emal :: looking back to the Jezerca top
Descending from Jezerca :: back on the Qafa Emal :: our route back in the afternoon light
Descending from Jezerca :: to the right, Maja e... Devil's Horns in the Kolajet range
Descending from Jezerca :: traversing the the icy snows of the kettle below Jezerca and Kolajet ranges
Descending from Jezerca :: Maja e Bojes with the low Qafa e Jezercës
Descending from Jezerca :: looking back to Maja e Jezercës range
Descending from Jezerca :: the near Maja e Bojes
Descending from Jezerca :: Maja e Kokerhanes
Descending from Jezerca :: back at the southernmost lake
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the dinner
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the dinner
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the dinner
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the moon above the Jezerca range
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the next morning :: here comes the sun!
Liqeni e Jezercës :: bivouac six :: the next morning :: packed
Leaving Liqeni e Jezercës via Qafa e Jezercës :: the last view of the lake
Leaving Liqeni e Jezercës via Qafa e Jezercës :: ascending
Leaving Liqeni e Jezercës via Qafa e Jezercës :: the pass reached
Qafa e Jezercës :: on the pass :: airing the boots
Qafa e Jezercës :: Maja e Kokerhanes, Maja e Jezercës ridge
Qafa e Jezercës :: Maja e Kolajet
Qafa e Jezercës :: Maja e Jezercës top zoomed
Qafa e Jezercës :: looking towards the futher route southwest :: the Maja e Prozmit range
Qafa e Jezercës :: the Karanfil range
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: a surprisingly smooth path down
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: traversing
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: Maja e Bojes
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: the complicated terrain below Maja e Kollajet range, Maja e Prozmit behind
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: traversing well below Maja e Kolajet range
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: traversing well below Maja e Kolajet range
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: looking back up to Maja e Bojes
Descending from Qafa e Jezercës :: looking down to Liqenet e Gjeshtajes, Fusha e Runices
Runices :: the pronounced valley step above Fusha e Runices
Runices :: siesta time
Runices :: siesta time
Runices :: continuing up the Runices valley
Runices :: traversing the upper Runices valley
Runices :: the next valley step towards Pejës :: they are still waiting for the enemy :: do you see it?
Stanet e Pejës :: extremely ugly, but with a good water source in the canyon behind
The Pejës valley :: the incredible Maja e Arapit
The Pejës valley :: Maje e Prozmit range
The Pejës valley :: looking towards Stanet e Pejës, the Karanfil range behind
Liqeni e Pejës :: descending towards the not yet seen lakes, Qafa e Pejës behind
Liqeni e Pejës :: ditto
Liqeni e Pejës :: bivouac seven
Liqeni e Pejës :: bivouac seven :: in the maze of strange rocks
Liqeni e Pejës :: bivouac seven :: the dirty lake
Liqeni e Pejës :: rocks
Liqeni e Pejës :: rocks
Liqeni e Pejës :: just two of us
Liqeni e Pejës :: bivouac seven :: the kitchen mess
Liqeni e Pejës :: bivouac seven :: airing the tent in the morning
Qafa e Pejës :: knotting the prayer flags
Below Qafa e Pejës :: a steep descent
Below Qafa e Pejës :: Maja e Popluqes(?)
Below Qafa e Pejës :: below the Arapit walls, Maja e Radihimës range behind
Below Qafa e Pejës :: the broad valley of Thethi
Below Qafa e Pejës :: a steep descent
Below Qafa e Pejës :: a cliff overhang below
Below Qafa e Pejës :: rock structures
Below Qafa e Pejës :: the Arapit wall shows itself
Above Thethi Okol :: looking back to Qafa e Pejës
Above Thethi Okol :: looking back to the mighty Arapi wall
Above Thethi Okol :: at the source above Okol :: well, the gadgets...
Above Thethi Okol :: just another one
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: the central part of the village
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: Maja e Radihimës range
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: what a civilised breakfast
Thethi :: a characteristical fence
Thethi :: the church
Thethi :: the church
Thethi :: the church
Thethi :: in the valley of plenty
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: looking through the arrow slit
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: folkloristic interiors
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: an ancestor
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: looking through another arrow slit :: the bar
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: the Albanian coffee
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: backing bread and a casserole, the Albanian style
Thethi :: Kulla e Ngujimit :: the Shalla River
Thethi :: the Shala River gorge
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: the birthdays breakfast (and the birthdays cake)
Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: birthday flowers
Leaving Thethi :: camping by Gjeçaj guest house :: packing the stuff on the roof of our jeep
Leaving Thethi :: the last Thethi view :: Maja-e-Radihimës-centered
Leaving Thethi :: the last Thethi view :: Maja-e-Arapit-centered
Leaving Thethi :: the last Thethi view :: Qafa e Pejës, somehow Maja e Kollajes, e Jezercës, e Popluqes, Qafa e Valbonës below
Leaving Thethi :: Maja e Komsholit, e Mardomit (?) from the jeep window
Leaving Thethi :: Maja e Mardomit (?)
Leaving Thethi :: driving on
Leaving Thethi :: Qafa Shtegu i Denvet :: a stop by the road building work front :: Maja e Radohimës range
Leaving Thethi :: encounter on the road
Shkodra :: Rozafa castle :: The outlet of the Drin River to the Shkodra lake
Shkodra :: Rozafa castle :: the town
Shkodra :: Rozafa castle :: the Drin River junction
Shkodra :: streets
Shkodra :: streets
Shkodra :: streets
Shkodra :: well done! of higher resolution pictures
- OpenStreetMap centered on Valbone.