A reprise of our trek to Solo Khumbu, but this time — the onset of the Himalayan winter. Walking from lodge to lodge, carefully maintaining dining room ovens, with Christmas by the very feet of the Mt. Everest. Returning taking a high route via the glaciated Cho La and Gokyo. December 2013.

If you wish advice for the Himalayan winter trek: even in the seeming security of trekking lodges in the most frequented and well-to-do area of these mountains please do prepare for the most vicious cold. The only reason why staying in a frozen lodge room is better than staying outdoors is that you are separated from all the other elements — but the cold and the frost… The lodge rooms are the opposite of being cosy — I dreamed of a tent, a small familiar space filled with our warm breath, quite a lot of times. So much to say about staying indoors.

Your sleeping bag, the most precious part of your equipment, must be the first class down, prefer the oversize one, and do, do take care it doesn’t loose its isolating properties. Your down jacket must be the most fluffy one of them all, and considering taking the down pants is never laughable. Change your clothes in the most disciplined way, sweaty for the road and “clean” for the lodge. You will not have any true washing anyway, the water occurs naturally in the form of solid ice. Do you prefer a cup of tea or a proper hands and face wash?I know the answer already.

Take the best wool underwear available. Although the thickness of it is your personal choice, consider the most thick pieces first. I loved my balaclava after the trek. As well as the prosaic simplicity of the adjustable cord of my sleeping bag, the perfect tool for keeping just the optimal opening to the frozen outside. And the tape, yes the silver tape to isolate the windows and all other fissures, cracks and gaps open. Precious as silver.

Having said this, the experience of a winter trek towards the Everest is something I will never forget and never regret! Just the opposite. Take me there anytime you want. Winter? So what?… I’m ready.

The route was, with flights to/from Lukla (night stays and [highs/lows] only): Lukla 2850 — Monjo 2835 — Namche Bazar 3440 — [Mon La 3973 — Phortse Drangka bridge ~3600] — Phortse 3810 — Pangboche 3985 [side trip Ama Dablam BC ~4500] — Dingboche 4330 [side trip Chukhung 4730] — Thukla ~4600 — Lobuche 4940 — Gorak Shep 5170 [side trips, Kala Pattar 5554] — Lobuche 4940 — Dzonghla 4850 — [Tsho/Cho La 5420] — Thagnak ~4700 — Gokyo 4750 [side trip Gokyo Ri 5340] — Phortse Drangka 3675 — Namche Bazaar 3440 — Ghat ~2500 — Lukla 2850.

• Gallery (188 images) Kathmandu :: Thank You, Your Holiness Vaisha Dev, The God of ToothachesFlight to LUE :: a few seconds before landing in Lukla, Mount Khumbila in sightLukla :: the airportLukla :: is it what we searched for?Monjo :: the after season atmosphere, definitelyMonjo :: the Sagarmatha National Park entrance :: Khumbila, the holy mount of the SherpasAbove Jorsale :: the bridges over the Dudh Kosi River leading to NamcheNamche Bazaar (val Nauche) reached :: The Moonlight Lodge window afternoon view, well above it allAbove Namche :: the village nestAbove Namche :: Thamserku viewAbove Namche :: looking south to Kongde RiAbove Namche :: the famous panorama :: Taboche, Everest over Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama DablamAbove Namche :: Everest over Nuptse and Lhotse zoomedAbove Namche :: the Everest top zoomedAbove Namche :: the Lhotse top zoomedAbove Namche :: Ama Dablam zoomedAbove Namche :: the Ama Dablam top zoomedAbove Namche :: Thamserku zoomedAbove Namche :: looking down south, the Dudh Kosi valleyAbove Namche :: chortens by the Khumjung airfieldLeaving Namche :: the famous panorama again :: Taboche, Everest over Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama DablamLeaving Namche :: Taboche over the shalf of the Phortse villageMong La :: the village chortenMong La :: is it really after the season?Mong La :: Kangtega and Thamserku on the opposite valley sideMong La :: the Kangtega top zoomedMong La :: the Thamserku top zoomedMong La :: the Phortse village zoomedMong La :: the Taboche top zoomedMong La :: the Ama Dablam top zoomedPhortse :: the perfect south slope location...Phortse :: three chortens by the village gompa (monastery)Phortse :: our backpacks by the gompa windowLeaving Phortse :: on the high trail to Pangboche looking south, Tengboche monastery to the leftLeaving Phortse :: on the high trail to Pangboche looking southwestLeaving Phortse :: on the high trail to PangbocheReaching Pangboche :: the Ama Dablam approach in sightPangboche :: late afternoonSidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: climbing up the mountainSidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: looking back to the village of Pangboche :: low clouds appearSidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: on the high morraine :: Pangboche village behindSidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: on the high morraine :: the Cholungche Khola valleySidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: clouds apprroaching steadilySidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: the Cholungche Khola valley, Hinku HimalSidetrip to Ama Dablam BC :: the Cholungche Khola valley, Hinku HimalSidetrip Ama Dablam BC :: Ama Dablam already very nearAma Dablam BC :: Mingbo :: The Ama Dablam Support LodgeAma Dablam BC :: Mingbo :: the Dudh Kosi valley already filled with clouds, Taboche top dominatesAma Dablam BC :: Mingbo :: Taboche, peaks by the Everest BCAma Dablam BC :: the peakAma Dablam BC :: Mingbo :: the Ama Dablam very topAma Dablam BC :: TabocheAma Dablam BC :: the nasty clouds reaching Pheriche and Dingboche...Dingboche to Chhukhung :: a meeting by the roadside chortenChhukhung :: warming ourselves in a lodgeChhukhung to Dingboche :: frozen bushesDingboche :: here comes the sun :: the sunrise above Ama DablamDingboche :: here comes the sunDingboche :: here comes the sunAbove Dingboche :: looking towards the Chhukhung valley, Lhothe southern wall, Island PeakAbove Dingboche :: the clouds from the south still do not have enoughTraversing above Pheriche :: looking north, the Cho La approachTraversing above Pheriche :: looking south, Kangtega, ThamserkuBy Dusa :: Ama DablamBy Dusa :: Kangtega, ThamserkuBy Thukla :: Thukla lodges below the Khumbu Glacier front morraineBy Thukla :: Ama Dablam, Kangtega, ThamserkuBy Thukla :: Hinku Himal zoomedThukla :: by the lodge ovenBy the Khumbu Glacier front morraine above Thukla :: TombstonesBy the Khumbu Glacier front morraine above Thukla :: the view of the upper Khumbu Valley opens, Pumotri to NuptseApproaching Lobuche :: Pumori, Lingtren, KhumbutseLobuche :: The view from the Sherpa Lodge window towards NuptseThe side morraine by Lobuche :: the Khumbu Glacier looking northThe side morraine by Lobuche :: the Khumbu Glacier looking east towards Kongma LaThe side morraine by Lobuche :: the Khumbu Glacier looking southThe side morraine by Lobuche :: Lobuche PeakLobuche La :: Nuptse already very nearApproaching Gorakshep :: Everest BC surroundingsApproaching Gorakshep :: the upper Khumbu GlacierApproaching Gorakshep :: Kala Pattar below PumoriKala Pattar :: beginning to climbKala Pattar :: just below the hill topKala Pattar :: the hillop messKala Pattar :: the famous view of the EverestKala Pattar :: the Everest top zoomedKala Pattar :: the Pumori top zoomedKala Pattar :: the ridge leads further on to the Pumori topKala Pattar :: Pumori western slopes, the Changri Shar valleyKala Pattar :: the upper Khumbu glacier, Everest Base Camp zoomedKala Pattar :: looking south, the lower Khumbu Glacier surroundingsKala Pattar :: the far Ama Dablam top zoomedGorakshep :: Pumori by the sunsetSomewhere above Everest BC :: the icefallSomewhere above Everest BC :: the lower Khumbu GlacierBy Gorakshep :: playing with the plastic garbage on a frozen morraine lakeLeaving Gorakshep :: Everest BC surroundings, Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse, Everest west shoulder, NuptseTraversing to Dzonghla :: the Khumbu glacier front morrainesTraversing to Dzonghla :: Pheriche and the mountains to the southTraversing to Dzonghla :: Taboche, Cholatse and th frozen lake below blocked by the Chola glacierGoing to Dzongla :: the valley of Dzongla and ountains surrounding Cho LaGoing to Dzongla :: Dzonghla lodges in sightGoing to Dzongla :: the rocky approach to the glacier leading to Cho LaClimbing to Cho La :: Cholatse just above DzonglaClimbing to Cho La :: the rocky glacier accessClimbing to Cho La :: on the glacier :: approaching the pass on the glacierClimbing to Cho La :: on the glacier :: the lower glacier partsCho La :: looking back east to the glacierCho La :: the glacial lake just below the passCho La :: on the passCho La :: the ridge south of the passCho La :: looking eastCho La :: an icefall east of the passCho La :: scaling the route west towards ThagnagCho La :: looking west towards the gentle saddle of Targu La above ThagnagDescended the Cho La western slope :: looking back toward the passWest of Cho La :: in a minefield of mixed scree, sometimes iced and sometimes soft snow by the Cho La BC approachTargu La saddle :: the prayer flags poleTargu La saddle :: by the characteristic, landscape-mark big boulderTargu La saddle :: looking back to the western Cho La approachesTargu La saddle :: Kangchung surroundingsThagnag :: lodgesThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: reached the eastern morraine :: Phari Lapche, Renjo La, Gokyo Ri above GokyoThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: reached the eastern morraine :: looking north to the Cho Oyu peakThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: a glacial lake somewhere in the middle of the glacierThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: the far Cho Oyu above the huge glacier bodyThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: Kangtega, Thamserku to the southThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: Kangtega zoomedThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: reached the western morraine :: the Gokyo 3rd lakeThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: Gokyo lodges hidden behind the morraineThe Ngozumpa glacier crossing :: Cho Oyu as seen from just above Gokyo lodgesGokyo Ri :: starting the hill climb over the frozen lake (3rd)Gokyo Ri :: Renjo La eastern aproachesGokyo Ri :: Cho Oyu busy producing a cloudGokyo Ri :: mountains NW of Gokyo RiGokyo Ri :: Gyachung Kang and Nup La surroundingsGokyo Ri :: The Everest-Lhotse-Makalu panorama sectionGokyo Ri :: Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse zoomedGokyo Ri :: Ngozumpa Glacier with the 3rd Gokyo Lake below, Cholatse, Taboche and Kangtega, Thamserku belowGokyo Ri :: Makalu zoomedGokyo Ri :: mountains to the West of Gokyo RiGokyo Ri :: the far Kangtega and Thamserku zoomedGokyo Ri :: the classical view to SEGokyo Ri :: the half-frozen lake belowGokyo Ri :: Ngozumpa GlacierGokyo Ri :: the half-frozen lake belowGokyo Ri :: the small snowstorms on the Phari Lapche slopes, Kangtega and Thamserku in the backgroundGokyo :: the half-frozen 3rd lakeLeaving Gokyo :: saying goodbye to the 3rd lake :: Renjo LaLeaving Gokyo :: saying goodbye to the 3rd lake :: lodgesLeaving Gokyo :: the bridge by the front morraine of the Ngozumpa GlacierLeaving Gokyo :: the bridge by the front morraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier :: consultingLeaving Gokyo :: looking down the upper Dudh Kosi valley :: note the warm humid air layer belowLeaving Gokyo :: in PangkaLeaving Gokyo :: by Pangka :: looking back towards Gokyo :: Cho Oyu behindLeaving Gokyo :: Vilages of Thare, Konar and Phortse on the left side of the Dudh Kosi valley, Kangtega and ThamserkuMachhermo :: the north entrance chortenMachhermo :: entering the villageMachhermo :: consulting the map by a lodge for the winterMong La again :: the lodges by the chortenMong La again :: the village chortenMong La again :: the spiritual mantras and the prophane yak shitMong La again :: Lama Sangwa Dorje depicted by the village chortenMong La again :: the toilet way views of Kangtega and ThamserkuBy Sanasa :: the classical Khumbu view reprise (Taboche, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam)By Sanasa :: yes, the Everest top over the Nuptse ridge again and again...Namche Bazaar with the Kongde Ri mountain on the oposite valley sideNamche :: the Sherpa Museum pot collectionNamche :: a mani stone by the village gompaNamche :: the village gompa interiorNamche :: one of those western-tastes-oriented bakeriesDescending from Namche :: the last (promised!) Everest viewBelow Namche :: taking the upper hanging bridgeMonjo :: looking back to the holy mount of Sherpas - KhumbilaChheplung :: looking back north to Ghat and PakhdingChheplung :: The Hilltop Lodge view south, the typical Nepali hill terraces begin hereChheplung :: The Hilltop Lodge :: our backpacksLukla :: The North Face Lodge :: Texting in our sunny 10$ room with attached - hot shower - bathroomFlight to KTM :: 9N-AKK, our carrier...Flight to KTM :: passing the Lamjura ridgeFlight to KTM :: incredible terraces of the Nepal hillsFlight to KTM :: reaching the urbanised valleyFlight to KTM :: houses get denserKathmandu :: Thamel :: Yangling :: it is never too early for good mo:mo:sBhaktapur :: Peacock Guest House :: our roomBhaktapur :: Tachupal Tole :: pidgeons of the Dattatreya temple of high quality pictures
• Gallery of pictures to choose from…
• Gallery of smaller pictures Solo Khumbu on pastvoyages.jankowski.org.
• Resources from zanskar.org.