A week walking around Mt. Kebnekaise in Swedish Lapland. September 2017.
We enjoyed of a whole week of almost dry and even partially sunny weather which cannot be taken for granted in this part of Skandinavia. It was already quite cold — the very begin of the arctic autumn — and birch trees leaves turned from green to yellow during the week we were there. As if our luck with the weather was not enough, we fulfilled all obligatory points of a visit in Lapland. Namely:
- a few nasty moskitos in lower Vistasvággi swamps before they died in the first frosty night,
- some moose that came boldly for the breakfast to our tent camp by Vistasstugorna,
- green-white northern lights appeared in the clear night sky over Nallostugan,
- we saw reindeer (chased from a helicopter!) exactly as we went nearby in the lower Tjäktjajohkka river valley.
Just the evening of the day we reached the end point closing our trail loop in Nikkaluokta it started to rain heavily, with snow falling all over the tops reaching down to upper valleys. The official tourist season ends this year on 24th September, the hosts of all these friendly shelter huts along the trails make them ready for winter and abandon their posts.
Our loop around Kebnekaise was (Sami and Swedish names mixed, sorry…): Nikkaluokta — a boat ride up the Vistasdalen valley on the Vistasjohkka river — Vistasdalen (Vistasvággi) — Vistasstugorna — Stuor Reaiddávággi — Nallostugan — a side trip to Unna Reaiddávággi (up to Unna Räitastugan) — Sälka — the Guobirvággi valley outlet — traverse below Siŋŋičohkka — Láddjuvággi — a boat trip on the Láddjujávri lake — Nikkaluokta. The entry point was the small airport of Kiruna.
- Gallery (251 images)
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: starting the boat ride up the valley
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: manoeuvers on thDay 1 :: Vistasdalen :: manoeuvers on the lake by Nikkaluokta e lake by Nikkaluokta
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: entering the river Vistasjohkka
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: Kåkitjårro range slopes
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: stranded by km 12 :: bye, bye captain
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: landing place :: Kåkitjårro range behind
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: into the bush
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: just two of us
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: looking up the valley
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: moose? elk? reindeer?
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: berries
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: trail marking and autumn leaves
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: somewhere inbetween forest and swamp
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: just another swamp :: Kåkitjårro range behind
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: just another swamp :: maintained trail
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: plants
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: mushrooms
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: just one of these mushrooms
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: some animal left its hair here
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: following up the valley
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: characteristic red-leaved plants
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: on the ground
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: birch forest
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: looking up Kaskavagge
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: a mountain seeming to be Niibbáš zoomed
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: on the river bank
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: on the river bank
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: a gangplank bridging over a swamp
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: plants taking over
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: a gangplank bridging over a swamp
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: looks like Unna Reaiddávággi valley outlet
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: clouds up Unna Reaiddávággi
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: meadows and swamps by Lisas stuga
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: by Lisas stuga :: Räitatjåkka and Sjelmatjåkka ranges behind
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: by Lisas stuga :: Vássačorru mountain behind
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: bivouac one by a stream flowing from Njuovččagaskkat
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: bivouac one :: flowers
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: bivouac one :: the tea is ready
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: bivouac one :: plants
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: bivouac one :: plants
Day 1 :: Vistasdalen :: the stream flowing from Njuovččagaskkat
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: the outlet of Unna Reaiddávággi, Räitatjåkka in clouds
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: swamp, birch forest, swamp, birch forest...
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: the bridge over Vassajohka
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: Vassajohka
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: two birches
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: reaching Vássačorru slopes
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: Vistasjohkka and Unna Reaiddávággi outlet
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: by the bridge over Vistasjohkka on the trail to Kaskavaggi and Unna Reaiddávággi
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: reaching the next valley outlet, Stuor Reaiddávággi
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: just another planks over just another swamp
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: one of these morraine rocks
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: Stuor Reaiddávággi valley clossed by Nallo vel Nállu
Day 2 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: it is only 0.5km to Vistasstugan
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: Vistasstugan itself
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: the red bridge over Vistasjohkka by Vistasstugan
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: sorting food out for a dinner
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Sjelmatjåkka vel Šielmmačohkka
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Nallo vel Nállu
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: enjoying the hot tea
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: evening moods, Nallo behind
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Sjelmatjåkka vel Šielmmačohkka
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Sjelmatjåkka vel Šielmmačohkka with Siehtasgläciaren, further Påssustjåkka vel Bossosčohkka
Day 2 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Påssustjåkka vel Bossosčohkka and Unna Vistasčohkka dividing the valley
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: frosty morning
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: a morning visitor
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: tasty young birch leaves
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: the stoic visitor zoomed
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: the stoic visitor zoomed
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Nallo vel Nállu
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Šielmmačohkka, Bossosčohkka, Unna Vistasčohkka
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: Bossosčohkka, Unna Vistasčohkka
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: the second, younger visitor to the breakfast
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: close encounter
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: close encounter
Day 3 :: Vistasstugorna :: bivouac two :: do you mean me?
Day 3 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: starting towards Nallo
Day 3 :: Upper Vistasdalen :: starting towards Nallo
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: at the valley entrance, looking down Vistasdalen
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: a waterfal at the valley step
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: autumn
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: finding the way through swamps
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: small side stream...
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: ...taking the path over
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: pretty Nallo looks, shady Räitatjåkka slopes
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Räitatjåkka shadow and Nallo in the sun
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Nallo en face
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: something looking metallic below Nallo
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: a stream below Nallo
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: the Nallo hut in sight, Tjäktjatjåkka range behind
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: looks like cotton
Day 3 :: Stuor Reaiddávággi :: the Nallo hut in sight, Tjäktjatjåkka range behind
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: I won't move from here
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: preparing tea
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: looking down Stuor Reaiddávággi towards Vistasdalen
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: the left hut compartment
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: a place by the window...
Day 3 :: Nallostugan :: ...a window with a view
Night 3/4 :: Nallostugan :: midnight :: aurora borealis above Tjäktjatjåkka range
Night 3/4 :: Nallostugan :: midnight :: aurora borealis above Šielmmačohkka range
Night 3/4 :: Nallostugan :: midnight :: aurora borealis above Nallo
Day 4 :: Nallostugan :: perfectly located
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Nallostugan below Nallo
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: following the trail to Sälka, Tjäktjatjåkka behind
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: looking back to Nallo, Šielmmáčohkka proper appears behindStuor Reaiddávággi :: looking back to Nallo, Šielmmáčohkka proper appears behind
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: plants by the trail
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: looking down to the lake Reaiddájávri, Sälka well behind
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: far tops of Sarek to the south
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: Tjäktjatjåkka range
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: Šielmmáčohkka range
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: Šielmmáčohkka range and Šielmmávággi valley zoomed
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: looking back over the endless scree-covered valley bottom
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: a stone marker nearby the pass
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: the wet stone desert details
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: brave mushrooms
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: Vaktposten group with a receding glacier
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: change of the slope, the lake 1226 with a stuga in sight
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: the scree desert
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: one of the small lakes at the bottom of the valley
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: Pyramiden and Knivkamen reflected in a lake
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: a footprint
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: Vaktposten group
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: swamp plants surviving here
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: ...animal traces
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: reaching the lake 1226, Pyramiden dominates
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: looking back towards Vaktposten
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: snowfields reaching to the lake 1226
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: the wide morraine of Reaiddágläciaren
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: the lake 1226 and the eastern valley step
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: Knivkammen just above the lake, Reaiddágläciaren
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: the beach just before the hut
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: Reaiddágläciaren between Knivkammen and Vaktposten
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: Vaktposten group
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: looking back the stony valley towards Tjäktjatjåkka
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: the Pyramiden pass between Mt. Pyramiden and Knivkammen
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: the tea kettle at work
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: looking through the door towards the Pyramiden pass
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: ditto, note the plce for one tent behind the hut
Day 4 :: Unna Räitastugan :: looking down the eastern Unna Reaiddávággi towards Vistasdalen, Niibbáš slopes to the right
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: trying to find an optimal way back through all that scree
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: Reaiddágläciaren
Day 4 :: Unna Reaiddávággi :: the pass :: looking back to Niibbáš, Pyramiden and Knivkammen
Day 4 :: western Unna Reaiddávággi :: scree slopes :: Šielmmáčohkka range behind Šielmmávággi valley
Day 4 :: Stuor and Unna Reaiddávággi junction :: at the ford
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: approaching Šielmmávággi and Reaiddávággi junction below Nallo
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi ::looking towards Vistas
Day 4 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: returning to Nallostugan
Day 4 :: Nallostugan :: evening clouds, Šielmmáčohkka range
Day 4 :: Nallostugan :: evening clouds, Tjäktjatjåkka range
Day 4 :: Nallostugan :: evening clouds, Tjäktjatjåkka range
Day 4 :: Nallostugan
Day 4 :: Nallostugan
Day 5 :: leaving Nallostugan
Day 5 :: leaving Nallostugan :: repeating the trail to Sälka
Day 5 :: leaving Nallostugan
Day 5 :: towards the pass dividing eastern an western Stuor Reaiddávággi
Day 5 :: at the pass dividing eastern an western Stuor Reaiddávággi
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: looking back towards Šielmmáčohkka range
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Tjäktjatjåkka range
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Reaiddájávri, Vaktposten slopes to the left
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Reaiddájávri, looking back towards Nallo, Mts. 1333 and 1825
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Šielmmáčohkka range with Šielmmáčohkka proper appearing above Nallo
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: exiting the valley, Rusjka and Sälka mountains and their surroundings
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: exiting the valley, looking back to Šielmmáčohkka range and Vaktposten
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Sälka mountain
Day 5 :: western Stuor Reaiddávággi :: Sälkastugorna in sight at the Tjäktjavagge valley bottom
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: approaching Sälkastugorna
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: exit of the Mielkeriehppi valley
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: the broad Kungsleden trail south of Sälka
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking up the Stuor Reaiddávággi
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking up the Kaskavagge
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: the impressive Kungsleden infrastructure
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: a reindeer fence by the outlet of Kaskavaggi
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: one of the meditation places
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking towards the white Kebnekaise by the Guobirvággi outlet
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Kebnekaise top zoomed
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking up Guobirvággi :: Kaskatjåkka, the characteristic black Drakryggen, white Kebnekaise slopes
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: looking south towards Singi, Stuor-Jiertá with a cloud
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: bivouac three :: setting up a windy camp
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: bivouac three :: the sun is gone :: the view towards Singi
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: bivouac three :: the view towards Singi, Stuor-Jiertá with a cloud
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: bivouac three :: Rusjka and surrounding mountains
Day 5 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: bivouac three :: Rusjka and surrounding mountains
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: morning tea
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: waiting for the sun in the down jacket
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: frost
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: frost
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: clouds travelling along the valley
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: Guobirvággi outlet :: here comes the sun, drying the iced tent before leaving
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking up Guobirvággi :: Kaskatjåkka, the characteristic black Drakryggen, white Kebnekaise slopes
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: crossing Guobirjohka on a proper bridge
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: by Kuoperjåkkå :: chasing reindeer from a helicopter
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge by Singivággi outlet :: the broad Tjäktjajåkkå valley
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge by Singivággi outlet :: the broad Tjäktjajåkkå valley
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: the Singivággi outlet, to the left Kaffedalen leading to Kebnekaise
Day 6 :: Tjäktjavagge :: looking up to Kebnekaise over Singivággi and Kaffedalen
Day 6 :: leaving Tjäktjavagge and Kungsleden :: mountains surrounting Tjäktjavagge to the west
Day 6 :: over Kårtjevuolle :: lakes on a plateau below Singitjåkka; Rusjka and Sälka behind
Day 6 :: over Kårtjevuolle :: lakes on a plateau below Singitjåkka :: details
Day 6 :: heading down to the main trail to Nikkaluokta :: Liddubákti and Skártoaivi mountains
Day 6 :: by Láddjubahta lake :: in the mountain shadow
Day 6 :: by Láddjubahta lake :: Skártoaivi
Day 6 :: entering the upper Láddjujohka valley
Day 6 :: entering the upper Láddjujohka valley :: Singitjåkka slopes
Day 6 :: following Láddjujohka
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka waters
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: walkers avoiding swamps
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: is this plant preparing for winter?
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: clouds over Duolbagorni
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: heading towards the Kebnekaise Fjällstation
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: Singitjåkka and Duolbagorni, Šiellajohkka valley inbetween
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: the valley bottom
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: looking up the valley from a small ridge rossed by the trail
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: the inconspicious Kebnekaise southern approach
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: looking high towards Kebnekaise top
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: still two bridges to cross, over Kittelbäcken and Jökelbäcken
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: the bridge over Kittelbäcken
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: some kilometre before Kebnekaise Fjällstation
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: some kilometre before Kebnekaise Fjällstation
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: Singitjåkka and Duolbagorni
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: Singitjåkka and Duolbagorni
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: Singitjåkka and Duolbagorni, Vierranvárri, Kebnetjåkka
Day 6 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: checking the weather report -- rain comes
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: cooking for the breakfast
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: morning clouds
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: morning clouds
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: details
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: details
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: details
Day 7 :: Láddjujohka valley :: bivouac four :: details
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi :: on the trail below the Kebnekaise Fjällstation
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi :: the clouds are getting nastier
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi :: looking towards Duolbagorni
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi :: in the forest
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi by Savugorsa :: a calm lake
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi by Savugorsa
Day 7 :: lower Láddjuvággi :: by the boat landing place
Day 7 :: Láddjujávri :: on the boat
Day 7 :: Láddjujávri :: looking up the lake
Day 7 :: Láddjujávri :: Kebnekaise surrounding zoomed
Day 7 :: by Nikkaluokta :: juniper fruits
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: church
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: by the lake
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: our red hut
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: our red hut interior, just two beds
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: our red hut interior, and a huge TV screen
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: mushrooms from Láddjuvággi for dinner
Day 7 :: Nikkaluokta :: all you need is a warm and rain-tight cabin
Day 8 :: Kiruna :: Hotell Vinter Palatset of high-quality pictures taken along the route.
- A post on jacek jankowski.org.
- The old-style picture gallery is available at pastvoyages.jankowski.org.
- The relevant part of an online topographic map of Lantmäteriet.